All looks pretty good in my eye, but I’ve been awake for like 18hrs now… Probably don’t trust me
Still probably better than my eye, currently got the flu and am gonna go lay down before I pass out on soldering iron lol.
Yeah I’d roll all of those. Don’t forget heat shrink
Now I’m terrified to show off my bullets which look like a child soldered them… Oh wait
I remembered how bad Shua’s soldering was, we all basically shouted at him for those cold joints, and now look at him, building his own battery and stuff. Check out the battery club thread, those are some perfect soldering job
That’s way better than me when I first tried soldering 2 years ago
I’d try to keep the wire in the bullet housing, but other than that, its looks alright to use. I’d run those
Yeah I had absolutely no clue how to solder bullets. I saw a hole and fed the wire through . I have extras so I’ll desolder or chop these off and try again.
The bullet still good for reuse, desolder the wire, add flux and try again, it should be fine
Good to know.
Yeah I also just replaced the little xt watever that comes on unity with xt90 cause thats what I put on battery and fogot the shrink wrap and had to desolder and do again lol
What are the benefit of CNC’d alu rims over plastic ones? Guessing they’d be stronger, but I dont see many threads about people snapping their plastic Phatladz. My instinct is it’s their ‘precision’-ness, i.e the ride will maybe feel more premium (and they’ll look cooler), but is that it?
What’s the difference between METR and Davega beside the display?
Edit: and then there’s the Freesk8 robogotchi + gps with asynchronous logging, but let’s ignore that for now.
Pros:
- Much more durable against impacts (I hit a stick and destroyed my first plastic set of pnummies when the rim cracked right off),
- Better aging (plastic gets more brittle over time),
- Better precision (bearings fit nice, no wobble. Won’t make the ride feel better, except for removing any vibration introduced by poorly made wheels),
Cons:
- Heavier (usually),
- More expensive (usually)
These are are actually legit reasons for getting them. Thanks
I should mention that the wheels that broke weren’t technically meant for esk8, but that doesn’t really change the fact that plastic breaks where aluminum doesn’t.
Yeah that is true, it will not however be true for glass fiber reinforced nylon, which is incredibly resiliant
But your points are still valid. The weight and price are main downside of metal, and I think the main downside of plastic is that it’s technically less strong, and they can be off balance (especially cheap ones)
However on the other hand if you buy sunmate untrampa wheels, I’ve heard those have bad balance even though they’re metal
Maybe too into the weeds for the noob question thread, but any discussion of plastic vs metal is pretty useless without naming specific materials.
i.e. China injection molded ABS plastic vs hard anodized 7075 aluminum? No comparison.
Carbon fiber reinforced composite “plastic” vs untreated 6061 aluminum? Not necessarily.
Composites can exceed the strength of aluminum, weigh less, and have more flexibility to resist cracking on impact. But it depends on the material & the fiber reinforcement (and design). Both can be manufactured via a number of ways (CNC, molded, forged, etc) with varying levels of precision. You’re probably better off looking at specific model reviews and brand quality than using material as a guide.