Yeah like Ryan said, I think its really hard to know for sure. The best way I can think of to figure that out is to look at the manufacturer’s current rating. If the 6355 says it can handle 60A and the 63100 says it can handle 100A, then dual 6355’s will theoretically be able to output more total power.
Although I think that dual motors are generally going to be better, since improved traction leads to better usability of that power. That’s just my opinion though, having used both single motor and dual motor builds extensively.
You also have to consider the drivetrain. If you have two motors, each with a 15mm belt, vs one motor with a 15mm or 20mm belt, you have a higher chance of belt-slip with the single motor since you are trying to put the same amount of power through a smaller surface area of belt.
It’s little stuff like that that makes this a really hard question to answer. There’s too many variables.
Do you know if a bms has a set mah charge or is it more of a regular?
I’m Trying to upgrade a battery by using better cells and want to use the old bms
A BMS doesn’t care about the capacity of a battery. It cuts charge and discharge once you hit a set voltage on a cell (4.2v charge and unsure about discharge BMS). A larger battery’s voltage drops slower under the same load, giving it more capacity. Consider just getting a Daly BMS if you aren’t using one now. It’s like $25ish and it’ll work great.
yea, that’s what I was thinking. Even if a bigger single drive has more power, I think it would be worth it distribute it between two wheel and drives so there’s a better chance I can actually use it.
Nah I’m not messing with belts, I’ve only broken a couple myself, but that was enough for me. I’m just gonna design myself a GD I think
yea i get that, I just like asking these questions because people often have useful insights i wouldn’t have though of. Thanks for taking the time to answer btw - i appreciate it.
Another thing to consider is that two small motors might make more heat for the same power output than a bigger motor, but they also have more surface area to dissipate that heat, as well as two separate motor mounts to act as heat sinks. Questions of thermal performance get really really complicated really fast.
I dont know that there is a way to say for sure which setup would have less power lost to heat without actually testing the exact motors and drivetrain that you are comparing.
Nice!
Sure thing! I love having conversations like this as well.
can i use a lower fuse rating like the average one in a car for a 10 or 12s battery? i talked to someone and they said in lower voltages a fuse voltage rating does not really matter.
Its best to use a fuse that is properly rated for the voltage of your circuit. The reason it matters is because if the fuse blows, it needs to create a gap between the electrical contacts that it’s breaking that is wide enough that the current cant just arc across the gap.
But loosing traction on a dual-rear-wheel-drive board is a very likely crash where on a single, loosing traction isn’t really any big deal because you still have at least one wheel on each truck steering. So, there are tradeoffs. In the rain, I’d actually prefer a single drive, and don’t go too fast.
Could be useful for mounting stuff on the front, like lights and cameras. That way you can just use standard bike attachments that clamp to the handlebars instead of some esk8 specific mount.
Hey guys, for some reason im finding very difficult to find what is the standart size of truck axle and kingpin nut (caliber 2 for example). I Believe that trucks are M8 and kingpin M10 but i may be very wrong so i want to make sure.
Looking to get the live telemetry BMS data that shows my cell balancing on the VESC tool app. I have a 12s4p 40T battery from EBoosted, but I’m not sure how to get the readings on the BMS tab on the app.
Would be cool if the advice included instructions for the desktop version as well, please and thanks