It wasn’t my intention to charge only when the loopkey is plugged in. But I dont see the difference of my diagram and the one of @b264 . Does that diagram has the same ‘problem’ or am i missing something 
The difference is that in your diagram, the loop key is cutting the B- line going to the BMS.
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Oh wait! I mean the red wire instead of the black one. Then it would be ok right? 
Your battery indicator should be in front of the loopkey, not behind it. The arrow isn’t really necessary for the loop key. You don’t want your indicator taking away energy.
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no, put there except on the positive side
Tbh, I’ve never done it that way.
No because that’s cutting B+ from the BMS
I would recommend just doing the first method but putting the indicator in front of the loopkey. It saves alot of issues.
Maybe i’m acting stupid but I tought B+ is one of the balance leads of the BMS, I didn’t draw them at all… When the loopkey is pulled out i tought it will charge following the pink line
But the light will never turn of then?
B+ is the main positive discharge wire. The big fat red one that all the power goes through.
(It is also connected to the positive-most balance lead, but that should only ever be connected to the BMS so the BMS can balance and monitor it, nothing else.)
If you’re bypassing the BMS (which you should be, unless you have a very good reason not to), then you shouldn’t have P- connected to the circuit at all.
You also have two red wires going to the connector for the voltmeter/stepdown/LED, and then a red and a black wire from there.
Go through and make sure all the things that are positive are red, and all the the things that are negative are black.
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whats the more powerful setup - dual 6364 motors or a single 63100? I would guess the duals cuz more traction and more total motor length?
That should also go where the indicator is as well. That way they both aren’t left on. But I believe others knows a better way to set this up. But I’ll show you my way since I can see the issue here. Your P- should not connect to the battery. That is a discharger. That is only used if you don’t want to do a bypass (which is not a good idea unless you got a bms that can give you the amps to use).
Other than that, you should be fine.
Yeah, probably.
Either way your limiting factor is probably going to be either battery, controller, or traction, not the motors themselves anyway.
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I think the whole problem is you need to put the BMS next to the battery in the diagram.
Look at my diagram above.
More like he has his P- connected to the battery and not on the esc.
Size does not affect the power output of your motors. I dont know why people think that.
The Watt output of your motors is equal to Voltage x Amperage that the motors are receiving.
So with the same battery voltage and the same motor current settings in your VESC, you will get the same Watt output from a 5056 motor that you would from an 80100 motor.
Size of the motor comes in when talking about things like thermal throttling or stator saturation, but those are edge cases.
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See my quote from above.
P- is the main discharge output from the BMS, which means the BMS can shut if off if any one of a number of conditions are met. At which point you will lose all power, and all brakes, and probably streetface if you aren’t expecting it.
Do not connect P-.
The only thing you should connect P- to is (maybe) B-, or (maybe) to your various ancillary (non-critical) shit like lights, horn, poptart warmer, etc, so that if you leave them on, the BMS can protect the battery from them.
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yea im aware of that, I was asking the question assuming the motors were the limiting factor - ie i had a big enough battery and esc to handle whatever current the motors could take without overheating. Basically I’m wondering which setup would be able to handle more current without throttling. I guess i should have stated it that way in the first place then, so sorry for the bad communication.
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