Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Well shittens…

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Staff moved it out of safety reason. How may i help you?

This is some seriously good info here :ok_hand:
The 12.9 oxide coated shoulder bolt that came with my 3ds trucks already has rust. Does it matter? No, it’s 12.9 steel, you need it to be seriously rusted for it to affect the strength, but aesthetic wise YIKES. And only had them for 3 months.

I find zinc coated alloy steel bolts to be hard to find in Europe, if anyone has a source please share!

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aesthetics are fine as they are gonna be covered by some lights
i just need them to be super strong

is there a disadvatgae to using the new school holes on a set of trucks? even if the end of the truck isnt directly supported by bolts then?

Favorably with the whole article…

What is the best way to set up a parallel connection? My first attempt was to use these kind of adapters

But these connectors aren’t real amass. I dont know if it would be a big problem? Could i even combine them with real ones?
But maybe someone has another solution as well :woman_shrugging:

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To plug two VESCS ? If you don’t want to solder anything, you can get one here from @EboardSolutions :
Vesc Parallel adapter XT90/XT60 – ElectricBoardSolutions
My guess would be that he uses genuine AMASS connectors and he ships from Belgium.

Otherwise if you are willing to make your own, you can find genuine Amass connectors here for Europe :
https://www.tme.eu/

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Thx for these links. I will use it to split my battery into bms and vesc connection. Like my wiring diagram.
.image

That is fine, I don’t think you have too much to worry about them not being genuine unless you’re running them near their current limits

I would do something like this for parallel connectors too.

Good thread lol too bad it’s only able to be viewed by regular. I’ll probably find it in a different forum.

Edit: got it lol.

hmmm… Thanks!

I’ve seen diagrams like these for ages, and uhhh, was wondering what app you use to make them haha

Is it just Microsoft 3d Paint ?

Not sure what he used here, but Sketch.io is a good resource and I’ve used it to make similar things

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That has a few problems, like the lighting and the battery meter won’t turn off when the loopkey is pulled.

Plus, learning to solder is highly recommended. Each of those connector pairs you need to cable-tie together (or tie with twine) so they can’t vibrate apart.

Try a circuit closer to this, and put the voltmeter in parallel with the lights.

Also, 10AWG wire will work fine but really 12AWG is all you need. Only use silicone-insulated, high-strand-count wire.

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Is Visio still a thing?

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I tried smartdraw but it wasn’t a succes for me. So I ended up in microsoft powerpoint :rofl:

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Ah I see you’re right. Thanks for mentioning!!!
I just looked at it and if I put the loopkey where the arrow points to, it will be solved. right?

And I will learn how to solder (at least i will try to learn)! What do you mean with cable-tie the connectors together? I dont understand :flushed:

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Your BMS will lose power when you pull the loop key, meaning you will only be able to charge the board with the loop key in.

This might be what you are going for, because in theory it means that there is no passive drain on your battery. But it might also be a pain in the ass.

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