Does anyone know how to use these flipsky bluetooth modules for a split ppm setup? Do I need to use two bluetooth modules for each vesc or can I just use on on once side. Also do these display the battery percentage of the board? Are there any ways of getting the battery percentage of the board without soldering? Also is there an iphone app for the flipsky bluetooth module?
8/25/2023?
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I fukn hope I get my wheels before 2023!
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Anyone else know a place to get 290-5m-15 belts from?
Vbeltguys is out of stock For 8 weeks
Vbeltsupply doesn’t have any in that size.
Anyone else have a better option that doesn’t take years for shipping ?
Amazon is a belt source. They’ve been dropped shipped from Gates. Got them from Ebay as well. Ended up coming from the same place. Lucky enough for me it was in TN so they come next day.
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Let me check it out to see if they got that size I need !
Where you getting these on amazon because the only option I have is middle of August shipping lol @abusfullofnuns
I’m not seeing 290 either. This gets you to the seller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISCFCSM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_NNV6EbRCC51AM
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Dang it
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THey have 295?
Eh I’ll look
Vbeltsupply has 285 and 295, if you can handle 5mm of adjustment (2.5mm actual adjustment distance because round belt)
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a bit off topic
I was reparing my neighbor her vacumm cleaner and had to solder a bit. When i kept my soldering iron on the pad the solder blob exloded. Does anyone know what could’ve caused this?
Luckly i wear glasses
It probably wasn’t the blob itself, but the circuit board material under the pad. Too much heat can cause the material of the board to break down and produce gases that can build up pressure under the pad and burst like that.
The best remedy is better technique: Be fast. Spend the minimum amount of time applying heat that is possible, to avoid thermally damaging components, let alone the circuit board itself.
Better solder (quality rosin-core, I prefer 63/37 tin/lead myself) helps by improving wet-out and thus reducing working time, as well as a nice temperature-controlled iron with integrated heater-tips: They have better thermal control, and can dump lots of heat in a short time, also allowing you to go faster.
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i wanted to be fast but the wire seemed to be stuck, had to cut it
Does anyone know why I get this sound? I want a smooth and nice sound but this is awful 
yeah, two in parallel and then another two in parallel facing the opposite side (in the configuration we’ve talked about) , and then the cables would go to the top / front and connect, creating a series, which would then connect to the loopkey ( I guess ) and then to the vesc. Did you make the dimensions exactly to the size of 4 packs? or did you include room the vesc?
I guess some tiny hook-lock could be attached to the front of the box that would prevent the door from flying out, or perhaps make it so that the lid can only retract some distance. Hmm, or perhaps the lid could have some teeth that locks it in place, and the lid would have to be pushed up (opposite the gravity) to allow it to slide out. Or maybe have pins that you stick into the sides at the end which locks the lid in place
Is that something that could improve the design?
One of my motors has this weird rattling sound but the other one doesnt. Is there a problem with this motor or can I just ride with it without worries?
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Yikes. Danger, Will Robinson. Did you buy the motors used? They look pretty new.
Also, how tight are the belts?