im pretty much a noob really, no idea how to find which cells are faulty…
they all charge and look the same in the smart bms graph and seem to be holding their charge also 
Top is the m5 screw metric
Bottom the apparently imperial screw.
what blows my mind is that the “imperial” one can fit both nuts where as the m5 metric one can only fit the smaller 8mm metric nut.
I do also have another set of black 9.4mm nuts which fit both screws BUT the nylock does not have any function on the “imperial” one. I can completely screw the nut on without tool, as if it was a non nylock nut.
Left imperial
Right metric
Big silver nut only fits left
Small silver nut fits both
big black nut fits both but only on the right the nylock has a function
The right screw and the black nuts is what I’ve been using for ever. The big silver ones came when i bought new hardware from the local skateshop. The small silver ones after i ordered all new screws and new nuts to make it uniform but they were small unlike the others.
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Put the two bolts next to each other, thread into thread. Do the threads line up?
I don’t really have a budget, but prolly ~~$50 would be around what im looking for. They are going into an existing hanger - The hanger is a “ABEC 11 liquid trucks 180mm” hanger. Someone gave them to me a long while back and im trying to make them eskate compatible.
Dafuq, its like FUB and metric made a child, and that’s the result
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Do you have calipers and maybe a loupe? Measure how many whole threads are in an inch (25.4mm) of length and what the outside diameter of the threads is
It’s probably #10-32
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I use these
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So I went out for a bit to test out the turning on the trampa trucks, and unfortunately, I cannot turn at all.
How do you get these things to turn…?
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that bastplate is 0 degree, so u need a deck that has degree on the truck mount part, like these:
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Interesting. So I’ll probably have to buy that instead. Thanks.
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Lmao ya that ain’t gonna happen those are 0 degree baseplates like @frame said
I think 3D servisas had some angled risers, but it’s probably better to just get a deck designed for them. The Haero, a Trampa, a Manta, MBS, etc etc
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Yeah I should had known lol
I’m sure it’s blaringly obvious in hindsight haha
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I’m kinda new to the mountain board thing so this is the first for me.
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I’m not really used to lipo, but a couple of month ago i bought some 6s packs,
Charged them like twice and didn’t use then much.
When i went to charge one of them today, i’ve seen that one of the serie was missing from the balance pannel,
I’ve checked the voltage manually and this particular cell seems to be at 1.34v when all of the other’s are at 4.05 or 4.06,
Why would this happen ? And is it safe to use a one cell slow charger to get to this one to got back to balance ?
Or should i crack the pack open to check the balance lead connection as i would have done with a 18650 pack ?
I’m mostly sure it isn’t, but maybe rc lipos have a better tolerance than liion cels ?
#10-32 and M5 are very very close.
M5 has pitch diameter of 4.48mm and pitch of 0.8mm. 10-32 has pitch diameter of 4.31mm and pitch of 0.79mm. The SAE bolt is less than 5% smaller with pitch less than 1% tighter.
Despite this, you should not be using those larger FUB nuts on m5 bolts. It’s an accident just waiting to happen. Either switch to FUB bolts, or find a different sk8 tool.
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i think i counted 32…does that fit?
major diameter is 4.72mm
Yeah that is 100% a #10-32 FUB thread and so a 10-32 nyloc nut is what you’re looking for.
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