Yeah ok. There is a bit lol. For my Hulk mini. 12s3p 40T, 6374 motor (i have a TB6380 too).
So dickyho has 2 shops?
E: yes
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Oh my lord, good times haha
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Actually I think he has 3 shops, maybe?
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How much space do you have? A Unity (Unity/Unity+/Xenith/Tenka) in super single mode will be top of the line and a regular FOCBOX 1.6 or 1.7 will work just fine
There are lots of options though
Do you ever plan to go higher than 12S?
Has anyone here used a vesc on an ebike? I kinda wanna make my father an ebike out of an unused mountain bike, and I’d rather just use a vesc than those sus Chinese ebike ESCs
The kits im looking at have 3 phase wires coming out of the hub motor, but they dont seem to be sensored…
I believe it’s possible to do so. But it’s best with a single esc. The remote is basically the bike’s throttle and it is programmable in vesc tools if I recall.
But, I’m not sure when it comes to power consumption since those hubs on bikes are larger than skateboards.
I have seen people use wired throttles on a vesc before, I’m just concerned about the motor behaving strangely since it’s going to run at low RPM because its a hub motor on a 26" wheel.
Power consumption isn’t a worry for me as it’s 20a max at 48v. Thats plenty of power for a pedal assist bike.
You should be fine then. A simple esc should do the trick. Just make sure you choose the right size when you set it up. I forgot if it was large outrunners or something like that. There should be videos about it.
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@pmg
A thing to remember - if you’ve removed and reinstalled your nylon lock nuts more than a handful of times, be sure to inspect the nylon insert before re-using. They get torn and abused quite easily. In theory, you should be able to re-use many times, but in practice, they stop providing drag/grip pretty quickly.
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is there a way to push the nylon back into the seat of the nut once it pop out? i can loctite it instead but would like to know if its possible with basic tool or any easy method
If the nylon is coming apart from the nut, you need to buy better quality nylocks haha.
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its just a few that does that in a whole bag of 100 that i brought, not a big deal to just throw them away, but still would like to know if its easy to do
i probably won’t use those on any esk8, but maybe its useful for other stuff in the future
welcom back to the scene Nice that you found the real forum. not sure if you read but Jason scammed us all again, disappeared, and started over like nothing happened, without apologizing or even admitting what he’d done was wrong.
anyway…
So after reading, you say you got that cheapo Chinese board?
if this is what you got, i don’t care how unintense you ride it, it’a a death trap. You can barely reuse anything on it. You have more chance of falling because the cheapo Chinese ‘‘aluminum’’ breaks under load.
I don’t know what your budget is, but you can build something from scratch that looks good and costs the same since your requirements are very low.
Tell me your budget and I’ll cook something up for you 
Esk8 products are so abundant now with many new vendors at good prices, unlike 5 years ago, heck even 1 year ago!
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First off, welcome back! I’m glad you found this forum 
You should consider making a build thread here to document your progress with this build, and get advise on it!
I have heard good things about the battle hardened Flipsky motors, so hopefully these do great for you. Great choice going for low kv.
I strongly advise you against buying a Flipsky ESC, they are prone to premature failure. Maker-X has a much better track record, especially since your use-case will be so mild.
I would suggest the “Mini Remote” which is cheap, trigger, and has a very robust radio communication protocol. Anything more expensive is probably going to be overkill for your application.
I wouldn’t call Maker-X ESC’s “boutique,” at least not any more or less than other VESC-based options. Just make sure all the ports on the ESC you are considering match the plugs on your motor and accessories (remote receiver, etc) and you will be golden.
In general, VESC HW6 based ESC’s are better in just about every way compared to a HW4 ESC, save for price. If price isnt that much of a concern, then a HW6 ESC will usually be reliable for longer, provide smoother and more predictable power delivery and braking, and be more physically robust.
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I would probably chuck them. Or use them as regular nuts. I cant see a benefit to re-inserting the nylon bit, as whatever holding power it had is clearly compromised.
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So loopkeys.
Why the removable part should be the female one? It looks to me a male part of a connector can be shorted out far more easily than the female part.
If you look at the wall sockets you will see that the female part is mounted to the wall not otherwise.
However when I search for loopkey pictures with google they all created the way as you guys are telling, so I am pretty sure I am the one who misses something, could someone please explain it to me?
@MysticalDork @b264
If it shows up like that new, then you may be able to carefully push the insert back in with a flathead screwdriver. If they’re used >1 time and the insert has popped out, it’s time to toss them. No sense in risking that, if you need the locking behavior.
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i’ll note as well, HW6 is a must for 12s (50.4v) batteries. you certainly don’t need 12s though, you’d get along just fine at 10s (42v).
a HW4 is cheaper and will get you those small speed without issue, i feel for going 15mph HW6 is overkill
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well, they are already in the bin few days ago 
so i won’t be reusing them
i guess if i find any again, i will just use keep them or other use that doesnt require the nylon part, probably for a desk or something
technically its when i tighten it down the first time, then i see the nylon part is getting squeezed out. i’ve replaced those right away, but i guess i can’t really bitch about it since i got a bag full of 100+ with less than 10USD 
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