Is an asymmetrically cut deck a sign that it could be a bad deck? Or is it normal?
Would idler mounts be necessary for 110s or are they big enough for them to not need them?
When braking and almost coming to a stop there’s a short period where the negative amps switch to positive, is that normal?
E: also seems like i have negative duty cycle
1 Like
You probably can’t use the two red TX RX pins while the Davega is connected. Use the SERVO pin instead for the remote. And as mentioned before, those aren’t the CANBUS pins, there may not be a header for those. I don’t have that ESC to look. Ask the manufacturer.
1 Like
You’ve probably went below the speed when you can regenerate energy, and it’s switched to active braking, using power to drive the motor backwards.
1 Like
Sounds logical.
It does sound different when it happens.
Seems to be a vesc thing since you don’t have that sound when using a chinese esc. They sound the same from start to finish.
Also at one point it does nothing, probably when it’s slow enough to not even try pushing against it. You have the regular braking sound, then the active braking sound and then it plops and does neither of them.
I wonder bow the lingyi does the brake lock function. If you are stationary and keep holding the brakes it engages a very strong effective lock so you can’t roll in either direction. Also works on certain degrees of hills.
1 Like
The CANBUS CANH and CANL wires go here, I think. 
You’ll need to get the 5V and GND from one of the other headers like the unused servo header.
Flipsky FSESC 6.6 dual
1 Like
@BenjaminF (i think it was you at least) you recommended me ages ago the bell qualifier as a helmet and then i was looking today for it but in the uk its hard to get in my size and without bright vibrant colours without paying a fortune for it
are there any of the newer bell models that are as good or better for this purpose? thanks
@xsynatic I just thought about this. Try lowering or raising the FOC switching frequency. Does the top speed change? Keep one independent variable if possible.
Be careful about raising it on a single-MCU dual. Lowering it should be no problem. If you raise it, be careful.
1 Like
Dickyho is good with belts as well I get them in 2 weeks.
1 Like
I dont really know what would be available for you in the UK, sorry. I only recommended that one because its cheap (here) and really strong/well rated. Mine saved me from a 35mph crash, with only a minor headache.
2 Likes
yeah managed to find one at £110 which isnt to bad
you can get them as low as £90 here but only in the wrong size for me
seems good
do you use the clear or smokey visor?
if it can save from 35mph crash then seems good
next is getting some good pads
Clear. But as mentioned above, I ride with it up most of the time. I’m considering the tinted chameleon ones as we are entering summer, but I dont really use the Bell in summer that much cus it’s a bit hot compared to my TLD Stage. I’m gonna need some sunglasses or goggles for that lol
1 Like
I got these hubs second hand and they vibrate like crazy. Could the Pu sleeves be the issue? If so where can I buy new ones? Or am I better off just ordering some new hubs?
I’d appreciate it if someone helped me with this. Esk8 IQ: The Math and the Science of Electric Skateboarding – Part 3 - #37 by Evwan
If not fucked, then at least in dire need of being realigned.
4 Likes
Realistically, what’s the max ERPM I should avoid surpassing for a vesc6 based esc? 60k is clear for a vesc4, but vesc6 seems to be somewhere between 100k-150k
No, 12S at 190Kv is great combo that’s frequently used and recommended. Good choice.
More worried about my Vesc getting fried because of ERPM limits. Getting a vesc6 and I’ll keep the combo