Yea if u wanna be safe about it, as long as u have enough space for the splitter and wires.
Yup, my two dv4 are still running great
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My apologies if I sounded judgmental.
It’s a 1P pack? My 10A recommendation was per cell.
You can certainly go higher if it looks like the cells can handle it. Starting at a lower discharge current level isn’t a failure or death sentence for the pack. It’s just a starting point until you learn more about those cells. 
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one more stupid question,
whats the pros /cons you see compared to getting a stormcore aside of the price ?
the unity died pretty quick for me (like within a 1,5 years) but i really liked the performance, will either option perform just as well ?
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i may not be the best person to answer this, and i only have the 100d as my reference. the reason i got it is simply futureproofing incase i go HV. technically if i stay at 12s, most esc nowadays will work just as fine, i don’t run any hardware to their limit, i probably don’t even run them to anywhere close to 70% of what they are capable of. but i will list a few things that i see pros and cons about stormcore (100D):
pro:
- best looking esc?
- HV of course
- supposed to have 2 uart port for other devices (1st batch messed up, and they are fixing that)
cons
- expensive af im sure most people agree
- stormcore app only available in ios, android version is still WIP, and vesc tool app…well the UI is just
- can’t think of a third point lol
what kind of setup r u planning to put them in? if u r building mtb, don’t bother with mini-foc, just get the dv6 is my first answer
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Maker X DV6 is also good. I’m using it.
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The focbox unity and stormcore were made by the same guy, give or take.
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Have two DV6 and run great, rock solid.
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tbh i did not even consider the 100D, for this build i will for sure stay with 12s, so for me it would be the 60D
im running a “street” build, ly evo on surfrodz tkp, 6" penumatics powered by a molicel p42a 12s4p, 2x 6374 and a dead unity 
what is so bad about the the mini foc in a mtb build ?
also where is maker-x based ? depending on that shipping could kill the deal for me
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Anyone got them ? Trying to figure out the specs of the support bar. I think it’s M5, 10mm large, but don’t know the length. They are discontinued and none for sell in the used market from my researchs
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Oh, ok, no it’s 2P, my 20A was for the pack, so yeah10A/cell do sounds good.
How do you determine if a current draw is too much for a cell ? By measuring the voltage sag ?
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Too tough to measure voltage sag (though it’s a great way to measure performance) unless you have telemetry set up.
If you’re starting conservatively then you can just ride the pack and see how the ride time and acceleration performance compares to another pack you know well. Immediately after riding check the temperature of both packs indoors with both hands firmly on the pack for at least 10 seconds.
If this pack gives you a lot less than the expected run time and/or runs hotter than you would expect then it is probably being run too hard and you need to back off some.
Be sure to check cell voltages before charging and make sure the pack is balanced before using it.
You can also charge/balance the pack, let it sit for a couple of hours, and check the pack voltage. Then let the pack sit for at least a couple of days completely disconnected from everything, a week is better, and check the pack voltage again. If it has dropped much more than another pack you have that you know is good that is a sign that one or more cells is damaged.
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heat will thermal throttle the performance, unless u have a decent heatsink to soak up all that heat
either china or taiwan, i don’t quite remember
ur street build got any heatsink? i still recommend the dv6 in any case
if the v7 mount is the same as v6 one, then i can sell u mine, it is “used”, but i only mounted it on for 1 ride, then taking it off. never went further than 500m. side note, its has got some oem defects on it, then i didn’t bother Dex to get a replacement for it, if u r not so concerned about it, PM me
e: i may or may not have loss it, let me find it first
e2: found it, got little bit of ding on it, PM if u want
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You can’t really measure voltage sag. That entirely depends on your motors, esc and power consumption. I can tell when I have voltage sag when my board no longer goes the same speed it had at a certain voltage (which would be near 3.5v for me on 35E cells, which I don’t recommend using for powerful builds). But this was only because I rode my board and noticed the power consumption difference (speed mostly).
There’s really no way to test that one without riding.
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Depends how cold it is. At 2-10° it’s shitty as soon as you pass 20km/hr. In 15-25°C i can cruise around at 30km/hr without problems but over 40km/hr it gets bad in any environment
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Sorry, by ‘cap the discharge voltage’ I meant set a max (and min) voltage.
Yes, my particular BMS is wired for charge only. Really, I’m interested if the discharge line of the BMS (unused, as you pointed out, in bypass wiring) could be used to power low voltage electronics in the 3-12V range.
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Nice
Gonna go for a medium size and have goggles on
Also anyone know why I have issues with log recording when phone is on battery saver on metr. Also does the phone have to be kept on while recording
The system closes or puts to deep sleep any app you don’t use and all apps when the screen is off. You can manually say to keep the app open though
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K nice will try again with battery saver off and phone off
You’ll need to tell the phone to keep the app open anyway. My phone puts vesc tool to sleep with no power saving on after a few seconds of using another app. I know because i was running a motor in duty cycle mode and as soon as i went on facebook it would stop
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