Please don’t do this anymore. A 10s charger is 42 volts, and also there’s no way that this is good for the batteries or the BMS. of course I won’t charge the batteries is the batteries output a higher voltage than the actual charger itself. It’s not worth frying something to skip the wait of just receiving a proper charger.
Hopefully you get a better answer soon as I have no qualification to tell you this, but it’s pretty easy to deduce that this is not a good idea.
There is probably no harm in using it, but here’s the thing about using a 42 volt (10s) charger: It’s only ever going to charge things up to 42 volts. Crazy, right?
So if you plug it into something that’s more than 42 volts already, it’s not going to charge it any more.
Connect it to the correct charger.
If you are really in a pinch and your board is totally dead (36v, 3.0 volts/cell), you could safely use a 10s (42v) charger to bring it back up to 42v (3.5 volts/cell). But you will never be able to get a 42 volt charger to charge something that is already more than 42 volts.
Also did you balance the new cells you added? I would suspect that all you p groups are difrent voltages and you bms can even start to balance them untill your at 48 is volts
question about motors:
motors on the tool are set to FOC but sensorless, does it make any difference if I set them BLDC?
Hey, @MysticalDork after reading your comments I had one of those facepalm moments. What you said makes perfect sense.
@Darkie02 Yep, I pulled apart and charged each cell individually using a 18650 cell charger.
I’ll hold out till my charger gets here next week, cheers.
Mike
I don’t think my answer can beat mystical’s since that was perfectly answered. 42v charger will only max out 42v, which is 10s max charge. 12s will no longer receive anymore charges after 42v since that is the limit of the charger.
That’s why 12s batteries uses a 50.4v charger since that is the maximum charge for a 12s.
Sensorless motors can be in BLDC if I recall. But using FOC helps reduce the loud noise BLDC has. Up to you tbh.
Just remember two things:
Tamed (FOC)
Beast (BLDC)
10char
I just changed the Motor type from foc to bldc and I can hear the difference… foc sounds quieter but screams when accelerating, bldc seems more “angry” but I don’t know if that kind of whistle is normal
Probably with load and a little push the problem is solved but I’d like to get them running as smooth as they do when going forward
how far in does a nut have to be threaded before it is safe to use? mine are just hitting the top of the nut after the nylock
pic? but i’d say as long as the axle is through, then its fine
i would suggest at least it be flush with the nut
yeah ok
they can go a teeny bit further as they arent tightened to the max. also what loctite should i use on those bolts? 243?
Oh that’s normal. Parameters doesn’t really need to be messed with if it was my choice. But I would recommend speaking with someone who has theirs set up in BLDC since I’m using FOC due to having sensored motors.
I would leave them until I have more knowledge about it.
Edit: if you are using BLDC, make sure you can’t reverse your motors.
You should make that more flushed. The screw should be a bit ahead of the nylon itself for a better lock. You don’t really need loctite if you can get it flushed.
I don’t use loctite on nyloc nut, maybe I should, but i just dont. They haven’t vibrate loose, not even once as long as screw is through
Sorry I just saw your edit… what you mean by “ make sure you can’t reverse your motors.” I can’t use current mode?
ah ok
i heard from people to basically loctite everything as to stop it from ever having any issues
can one latching switch control two different circuit?
example would be one battery output to splitter to two different AS, then AS to esc
but since each esc AS have their own latching switch, can i wire the switch together so one switch to rule them all?
e: i wrote wrong shit
e2: the one im talking about is this one: Anti Spark Switch 10S 100A - MakerX
