Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

yep i think i nearly killed myself by doing it but it works well

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Is there a chance this is real? It’s like $40 after shipping and fees, but considering how cheap these cells are, could it be? I was gonna use something like this for an ebike for my father. It seems too good to be true, but the reviews look good… Also I don’t know how I would charge this.

US $24.75 55%OFF | Genuine 36V battery pack 4400mAh 4.4ah rechargeable lithium ion battery for electric self balancing scooter HoverBoard unicycle

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There are other ways to do it, pinging @BigBen with his velcros

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They say that all the time… I would just buy a battery from trusted vendors instead of Ali tbh.

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The entire motor and esc kit is like $160. Buying something from someone reputable will double the price

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I just thought something to mitigate the vibration could be a good thing. I thought of springs but unless they are like the right stiffness it would be too bouncy maybe?

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Those are exactly THE batteries that got all the lithium batteries banned from all flights. Exactly that same model, capacity, bms on the side. They are a massive fire hazard at best. Please do not get that thing anywhere near a plane flying towards you

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ask @tinp123 to build a 10s1p p42a it wont cost much and has mroe capacity and amperage
or even a 10s2p and that has over double the capacity of that

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Motors are cheaper on flipsky and esc on maker x. There are alternatives to be honest with you. If you want to go for Ali, be my guest. But I only use Ali for parts.

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How much do you trust a $160 motor and controller? Will it stop you before or after you are in front of a car?

Please reconsider your budget or just get a $300 scooter for a similar performance level but already mass produced.

An electric skateboard is not something to skimp on important parts and i say this with the best intentions for you

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I understand money is an important factor and I would buy cheap stuff if I know the pricey stuff don’t offer any advantages. But in case of batteries, I would be cautious. I bought packs on Ali and, they told me the cells would be one brand and installed another, the Amp rating was shit and they used nickel plated steel. Never been able to use those packs because they were rated like 20a or something.

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at 300$ a meepo will prob outclass anything you can build for the same price
thats what i think at least.
maybe for someone who has all the tools and small parts allready… but for a first build i doubt it

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Also, most of those cells are Panasonic cells. And not the good Panasonic either.

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I dont know if they have bad intentions or just don’t think we need packs that are 60-100amp or more.

It was 4 or 5 years ago tho, by now they must understand we are not building “toys”

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I know hehe

I meant an XT90s in addition to the antispark (thinking of an XT90s loopkey here, or other discrete AS) in order to reduce the voltage spike from the long wires after pulling the loopkey out.

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Just remember that batteries are giving you DC currents. If it was AC, it wouldn’t matter as much. You just need an anti-spark. The law of DC current is why you can’t have the wires too long.

Once you open the circuit (pull one connector out), the entire thing is unpowered. Xt90s connectors only work in the first part of you plugging them in. Fully inserted they are exactly like a normal connector, and partly inserted left like that they are a fire hazard if you try to put load on.

The correct way to help against inductance spikes it to add more capacitance. Ultra-low esr (equivalent series resistance) capacitors put it parallel to the power lead will be good. Ideally they should be every “x” amount of cm (calculated by the actual spikes measured) but they can all be as close as possible to the consumer (controller) for good enough protection.

Keep in mind that too much capacitance will burn out the resistor in the xt90s loopkey/restart an electronic antispark

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For ebikes I havent seen much about them being unreliable. The ESC will be putting like 7amps because its 250w @ 36v, and the motor is a simple hub.

I failed to make it clear that it was for a bike. For my board I use good parts as I barely trust that thing as it is, For a bike I trust the disc brakes and the cheap esc cuts the motors when the brakes are pressed.