If it’s really coated, take an aspirin (yes, aspirin) pill and melt the wire into it. Most fluxes should be able to attack at least from where you cut though. Seems like your iron isn’t powerful enough
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Looking at the “parts used” on the trampa monsterbox i just ordered, it’s skateboard bushings. Yep. Bushings. Check it out yourself (they have all parts for any “complete item” listed separately)
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gonna go down to the chemist today and see if they got aspirin
tried flux and nothing iron is 65w and pretty powerful as ive done 10awg no prob with it
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Any wheel as long as you put the right bearings. Find out the od (outside diameter) the wheel you like uses and replace the default 12mm (from mtb) to 8mm id (inside diameter) and google it. You’ll find something like 6800 2rs (i use these on bergs with 10mm axles). Take that number and put it in amazon or ebay and get basic generic ones, they’re consumables
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We were using a shit ton of aspirin on electronics practice, beware of the smell though. Almost like burnt hospital hallways that smells.
Although i think that wire is thick enough you can just carefully scrape away with a knife
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I don’t think they have the patience haha. Everybody is a car enthusiast there and makes me wanna cry. I’ll try anyways xD
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Receiver only has a milisecond of pairing phase at the beginning when powering on the board. If remote is not in pairing mode already when you power on the vescs it won’t listen to anything else.
Also make sure you give the receiver the 5v, tx-tx, rx-rx and gnd connections it wants
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for future people reading this, tx-tx rx-rx only applies to flipsky products
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Flipshit*
Cuz they like to flip shit for no reason.
Or their electronics department is run by a monkey with a wrench and a phobia for soldering irons cuz he got burnt first time he touched it
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as much as i agree, i had to write flipsky for SEO
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yeah checked all connections around 50 times all good
tried every possible way to pair and getting nothing
@anubis is kind enough to send a new one which hopefully will work
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Good to know, thank you!
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Right, I meant the voltage spikes as a result of pulling the loopkey.
As in the connection that joins both copper bits of the XT90s or like the leads that goes between the esc and battery (with the loopkey in the circuit)?
This. The shorter, the better. Less inductance, but it’s recommended to have something for anti-sparks so that it doesn’t damage the esc overtime when putting it in/taking it out (apparently the most common issue).
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Having something like another XT90s on the battery connector would suffice, right?
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The connector for the battery (I’m not 100% sure) doesn’t really matter since it depends on the current the battery can put out. But if your battery can output more than 90amps, then using XT90s will work best. Other than that, I think it’s a preference thing. I would go 90 just because some products use Xt90s as their connector.
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thanks a lot @athrx and @rusins
aspirin worked perfect and nearly choked me but after 2 it got enough enamel off to solder to a wire
looks like it will all work out
thanks
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You NEED an antispark for any esc. They all have some beefy capacitors that when connected to a power supply, for a few fractions of a second they draw hundreds of amps. The cheapest way is a xt90s loopkey, but if you prefer to press a button to turn on and to have the exterior looking clean, there are antisparks dedicated for this.
Do NOT use regular xt90 plugs or xt60 as this will leave carbon deposits every time you connect them with a spark and in not too long time there will be enough to raise the resistance of the connector, make it overheat and possibly start a fire. That is before even considering a chunk of the connector basically burns away every time
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Warned ya. That shit is evil but does the job too well to even consider alternatives
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Why haven’t I thought of that, skate bushings are actually a good idea. Thanks man!!!
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