Yeah I agree, but if you want it to be a smoother ride, that’s part of the point of using the rubber risers anyway. If you need to raise it for wheelbite or clearance, that’s different.
I’ve never personally had to use risers for wheelbite, just for a smoother ride or for wire routing like on my hub board. I wish I had some rubber ones on my hub board though
Maybe I’m just paranoid (or stupid), but I want a teeny bit of softness so the riser can conform to the deck, since it will be going on a short deck where the truck mounting holes are right by where the deck curves up.
I feel like using softer wheels (or pneumatics) should be the way to go if I want a smoother ride; I’ve one too many instances of where soft risers let the trucks move too much and the rider flies off. Likely just edge cases, but why risk it. Unless its like one or two thing soft risers, then I’d want risers as hard as I can get.
typical tayto problem. Maybe add a set of holes so it’s not on the curve anymore?
Yep 
. just minus the kicktail.
unfortunately I can’t do that; I’m already running into clearances issues with the enclosure, even with risers 
3 to 6mm is about as thick as I would go. I have not had any issues with them shifting
Risers should not be used to make the ride smoother.
Truck hardware isn’t designed for motion like a hydraulic cylinder. The constant motion can wear either the bolts or the riser, deck, and trucks. You also want the truck tight and not able to move. You really, really don’t want slop in the truck bolt stack.
I have never observed slop with one 3mm rubber riser when it’s properly tightened. There is not enough motion there to cause fatigue.
They’re used in normal longboards too. People keep saying there’s slop and all that but I don’t really know what they’re talking about. I have rubber risers on two boards and no issues.
It isn’t great for boards where you mount a drop through as top mount though because it kind of throws the riser all out of whack.
I get what you’re saying but that is a bit of an exaggeration, we are talking 0.1 mm of motion here
I notice that on some MTB builds, the battery leads to the ESC(s) are pretty long. When the loopkey gets pulled out, doesn’t it damage the ESC over time when the voltage spikes?
(thinking of this thread)
Or could a fix just be to twist the wires together?
The loop key doesn’t really destroy the esc. The voltage spikes would be because of the long wires itself when pulling the key (Inductance). That’s why its better to make the loop key wire a bit shorter and with an resistor on the key to reduce the spikes. Battery should be close to the esc instead of away and if possible, nice and short.
Edit: I say that, but I have no space to work on a battery build 
I used .50 risers on mine or my enclosure would scrap. Is that frowned upon for stability reasons?
It’s fine. I have 39mm of riser on Bigfoot.
Anyone know what is the charging current limit of the eboosted bms? I want to get an 9a charger on it, I realize the barrel jack is limiting to 8A or so, but what is the bms?
Even if the bms can do higher, u shouldn’t because the jack won’t be able to sustain it, I’ve been using 5A and 6A charger with my eboosted pack, the jack does get slightly warmer than I’d like
e: I think I asked Alan before about fast charging and he said not to go over 5A or something
Yeah 8A is pushing them, but it depends on which source you get it from, some are better than others
Ok so I can replace the barrel jack with something that’s no problem really just concerned about the bms,
Just going by the label it says 12S-15a I’ll take a wild guess it’s a 15 amp bms
this
I wouldn’t recommend more than 5A on a barrel jack unless you verify that particular one can handle more without getting super hot.
Some can do more, like these two are some of the most robust I’ve found:
male
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/490-PP3-002AH/
female (REQUIRES an epoxy mount solution)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/490-PR-2155/
You could probably use those up to around 9 - 10A max. I know they’re rated at 7A and 8A but you could probably push that a tiny bit, but not much.
The Amass XT30 connectors can handle a shitload of current. (30A)
They’re hard to waterproof though.
Well I guess I got some work lined up for this then, I’ll try to mount some xt 30 or something there
For waterproofing I was going to use a male with the pins pulled or print something from tpu
I’ve heard good things about the LP20 connector but I haven’t tried it.
https://www.amazon.com/HangTon-Waterproof-Connector-Industrial-Coupling/dp/B07DLTV59M
Rated 30A
If the fitment is almost the same as the barrel jack that’s a winner, the xt30 could fit in the original hole too though and I spend nothing