Looks like a Counterbore bit AKA “Forstner bit”
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Who makes reliable anti spark switches these days? @Gamer43 comes up everywhere when I search the subject, but I don’t think he’s selling any…?
@Gamer43 worked with two different companies to design two different Antisparks that work slightly differently to the old designs that were on the market.
One of those two companies was HaggyBoard. He designed their “Toughwire Antispark.” I owned one, it was great. But HaggyBoard is currently out of commission, so a production run of these never got made.
The other company was Flipsky. He helped design fully designed their “200A Smart Antispark.” Flipsky also sells several models of antispark that are the old, unreliable design. So make sure you are getting the right one 
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so i saw a couple builds do this and dunno if its just them being stupid or actually ok
1/2 inch per side is all i nee
Allright. I had a few switches from esk8.de ? (Don’t remember amymore it was 4years ago) it was based on veddars switch tho. These did blow after a while.
So flipsky 200a is the way to go then… thanks.
Hey btw I asked James from llt about adding a switch to the bms. He said I could do it my self. But didn’t comment on if it needs to be activated in the firmware…?
You don’t happen to know where on the pcb tp add the switch by any chance?
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I dont, sorry. Check out the documentation page on their website and you might be able to find it on a wiring diagram though.
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Tried that without luck. Thanks anyway!
Or I might suck on searching 
wait what. how did you get the letters to change colour?
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hello people, I have this 10s2p scooter battery and it only seems to charge to 39.5v (charger is 42v). Could this be the BMS stopping it from charging as its unbalanced? The battery was sitting for a while…
Would be best to open her up and stick yer probe on each cell of each p pack and find the low ones.
Yes, that is definitely possible.
Leave it on the charger (in a fireproof area just in case) for a couple hours, and see if the voltage has crept up any.
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this isnt an option because of the way the battery is in the enclosure… its… permenant. not my doing, but its not removable.
I would cycle it a few times. Give that bms a chance to do its majic. Balancing takes time. Check for heater cells
“helped” is an understatement.
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risers are totally dependent upon tons of factors
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Example and how can I find if it is ok in my situation
Otherwise I guess will just order from Amazon for a couple days time
LoL he didn’t “help” design it, he designed the whole thing 
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I find needed riser size empirically until the wheelbite goes away. I just have a stock of hard risers here.
Don’t get soft risers!
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Not for wheelbite rather for enclosure bite so need an extra half inch
And the drive is loctite in place (used) so can’t change to rear mount easily
I can get hard but would prefer if printing in pla or abs would work
I couldn’t quite recall your level of involvement there. Fixed, thanks!
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