Unfortunately the chatter was not due to the slop in the hanger between the motor…one of the 2 direct drive motors on the TB DD (75kv) set i bought is hard to spin and has that not so fresh / melting electrical parts smell of death coming off it… I mean we’re four months later and I can still smell that burning electrical smell so I really don’t know what the problem was if it was a sensor wire issue but that set of motors I got from torque boards/diy electric skateboards I think something was wrong with it and that being my first build I kept second guessing myself but I had a pair of flipsky 6374 belt drive motors (140kv…I am definitely a torque oriented individual) and a set of 13-in hanger double kingpin trucks so I slapped those on the board connected everything up to the same Unity ESC and did the exact same setup pretty much since both motors can handle 80 amps … Although at the time I never put more than 55 through the flipsky or the torque boards motors… And with the flipsky motors connected to the same ESC everything worked perfectly took me two minutes to configure and I was off and running… Dexter being the wonderful individual he is at torque boards told me to send the motors back to him for them to check out and I have been remiss in doing that because let’s just blame it on the pandemic and not me being too busy / too lazy… I bought two sets of the torque board direct drive motors cuz I was originally going to build a four wheel drive setup but now I’m like afraid to connect the other set of motors for some unreasonable fear that the other $700 pair of motors I bought is somehow going to be defective or not work like the first set did that I tried on my very first build. I’m going to try and send the motor back to torque boards and see if Dexter has any mercy on me if it turns out there it was indeed something defective with the motor which I can’t figure out any reason why it would have heated up so much more than the other motor on that set of trucks and to me it feels like it I don’t know what the problem was but it’s not spinning on that axle the way that the other motor still spins on the same set of trucks.
Really appreciate your response and I suppose a terrible way to show my appreciation is what this stupidly long response full of information that probably is a ridiculous amount of TMI. But I do have a set of the newer torque board vesc’s that I will eventually slap I want to build with the other set of direct drive motors waiting patiently to be utilized and hopefully will work without any issue.
definitely out of the warranty on those for sure no matter what cuz I yanked them off of the reverse kingpin trucks and bought I standard kingpin 15-in mountain board truck and put the hanger onto the base plate from another set of double kingpin trucks and I meant actually managed to find a 15-in hanger that fits all the angles right on the double kingpin trucks I just had to buy the super tall venom bushings to get it sit right and then I mounted the direct drive motors from my other set of torque board DD trucks and motor setup onto that hanger with a little filing and some thermal tape and it’s solid feels way more solid than it arrived from torque boards zero slop and the only question now is will the 15 and hanger take the weight and torque from the direct drive motors in will I not overheat them as I know the 60D torque board reverse kingpin trucks have a pretty nice heat sink feature built into them that my custom dual kingpin creation may not dissipate heat as well… What can I say I like really really wide trucks and dual kingpins with the 6" pnuematic tires mounted to suoer low rider drop down + drop through decks.
These takes over 70 amps per motors. Is it time to finally say goodbye to the retro and get myself another esc that can give these things their full potential or just hold on to the esc?
So far it’s fantastic. But I’m more of thinking about later on.
No, there are two current values, motor current and battery current.
Just set “battery current” to whatever your battery or ESC can do, whichever is smaller, and set the “motor current” to whatever the motor can do, even if it’s far greater.
It’s completely fine to have over 100A motor max and 20A battery max, for example.
Trying to actually stop on a single build. Anybody have any recomendations. How many amps does it take(motor current max brake) low speed brakes. Also for the high speed brakes(battery current max regen). Also it has a 6364 230kv-254kv motor on 97mm wheels. 16/36 gears. Single focbox. 12s3p a123 battery. Rider weight 130lb. 15 amps didn’t really do anything. Should i double it. Can braking amps exceed battery amps ?
yes, so to answer ur question about low speed braking, u can up the number (go down on the negative) to a strong enough braking strength, i personally do -40 per side on motor brake, so i can stop the board before it run into people or car
-25 per side works fine on my dual build. That equals -50 amps of stopping power. On a single build should i go -50 or will that just make it lock up instantly.
i don’t have any single drive build as reference point, but i mean, don’t rely on numbers from others, u should try out different brake amp to see which fits u the best, some like it strong, some like it soft, and some like to be superman
I only have 30amp max amp set for this focbox. Was just wanting to know if the negative amps could exceed the positive and if its safe for the esc. I will start testing and changing things for an afternnon test session
You could also try a 190Kv motor and 15/36 if you want to keep your wheel pulley, that’s another option that will work equally as well. Probably the easiest fix, just change the motor and motor pulley.
