That only affects you if you hit top speed. At 95% duty cycle motors shut off, then come back on at 94%, increasing duty to over 95% again and so on. This also doesn’t happen simultaneously on both motors so it starts to wobble.
By putting duty cycle current limit start at under the duty cycle max (95%) you create a buffer zone where the vesc starts to drop current gradually until it’s almost 0 at 94-95% duty cycle. The 85% duty cycle current limit start creates a 10% buffer zone that fixes all issues
That’s the duty cycle issue. Traction control does not steer your motors, it actuay does everything possible to keep everything at the same rpm. You seem to have a slightly larger kv difference between motors so that they shut down completely separately instead lf alternating and wobbling. You’re lucky, kinda
This is true for the Android app. @Geo_Engineering_FTW is using the iPhone app, which works differently.
You need to fill out the “Capacity Configuration” section completely for that % to display correctly on the home screen. Keep in mind that the “capacity configuration” settings are local to the app, and have absolutely no bearing on what the BMS does, so they are not required. It just determines how the app displays the voltage that it’s reading.
Unity, dual 6374, Bergs…odds I’ll have issues with the stock XT60 and 12awg wire with light off-road? I don’t think I’ll have issues, but the sanity check is nice
In theory I can max out the motors at high end and I’ll pull about 120A, but also I don’t think I’ve pulled that a day in my life even with the eMTB
Those motors have the shaft on the opposite end compared to our standard fare, which means it is much farther from the mounting surface, which means it will place far more stress on everything for a given radial load.
Given that esk8 is pretty much ONLY a radial load, that is a Bad Thing and must be avoided.
One way would be to make some kind of support bracket to support the end of the shaft, to counteract those high moment loads.
Depending on how the shaft is secured (setscrews, press-fit, adhesive) it might be relatively easy to either move the existing shaft or replace it with a longer one that extends out the back rather than the front.
Honestly given all that, I would say it’s not worth it. A motor is a motor, and while those are pretty nice looking, the extra trouble isn’t really going to get you any significant advantage compared to a nice set of “conventional” esk8 motors.
I seem to have a problem with my remote, speed and maybe torque of my board. My setup is 10s, 190kv, tb110s, and 2.21 ratio. I used esk8 calculator and it says i should get about 40 no load and 34 loaded, 3d servisas says about same speed. I tested and it gets 40 no load but when im riding it seems it only goes about 26 according to the vesc app and a speedometer app on my watch. For torque, it seems like i have to set my amps higher than usual to get decent torque and brakes. I tested 20-30 amps each for acceleration and brakes 40a each and it feels about or weaker than my chinese hub board. Not sure if this is a problem, maybe my expectations were too high. And lastly my vx1 remote keeps saying weak connection when its only a couple feet away from the receiver and the receiver is outside of the box on top of my deck with electrical tape over it. Maybe theres alot of interference in nyc but i see other people with diy do just fine and i put it like inches away and still says weak signal which dont make sense. Got a delayed input and scared the shit out of me. What the hell am i doing wrong?!?! Pls help
should the circlips on a motor shaft be able to wiggle back and forth and spin with no resistance? I thought they were supposed to be a snug fit? Unless this isn’t an issue
