wait, the shafts on motors are steel, right? and steel will short out your motor?
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If you purposefully stick shaft shavings in the motor can, there is a not-zero chance that one of them will pucture through the teflon coating on the windings and short them together in some way. They’ll instantly evaporate if the motor is under load but that winding remains pierced and slightly toasted from the shavings igniting
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Cheers …might go for a late nite ride now the pneummies are on
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Idk about that, a lot of people pop tubes when you run them that low.
I run mine at 55psi and they’re still plenty soft. Haven’t busted a tube yet either
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Indeeeeed! Let’s do it (I’m slow lool)
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If i feel my teeth shaking when i ride over tactile pavement then i consider it too stiff. I also need the contact patch when braking, for safety and even wear
I’ll probably skip this weekend as riding in this cold is anything but pleasant, but hopefully next week!
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Typically there are two avenues for protective guards - shock absorbing (soft & squishy) or load supporting (hard & strong).
3D printed TPU (similar to rubber) is relatively easy to design and print, and can reduce the severity of impacts, while protecting from rock chips, etc. This could be wrapped around your gear drives and/or motor cans.
Structural protectors would need to be designed to hit the curb / speed bump before your motor mounts do. Something like PETG could be printed - you’d have to mount it directly to the hanger, so the hit avoids your motor mounts or drive shell. These should be sacrificial pieces that you’d replace after they get too beat up. You could also mount an aluminum bracket to your hanger, and then attach a low-friction teflon (PTFE) plate to encourage your board to slide better.
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Yeah its def too cold ATM…when it warms up a bit 
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Thanks for your input!
Tpu seems the most achievable, as long as it doesn’t deform so easily that it grips the ground and throws me off.
Petg and other sacrificial pieces sound good but don’t fit my use case, because i’d like to rely on them once they’re there, not just accidents.
And for the aluminium brackets and ptfe, that sounds damn expensive
Hm weird I find 55 to be super soft for me. What wh/mile are you getting on 35? I get like 28wh/mile at 55 psi
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You’re not really getting much?
Used to be 20wh/km with aliexpress wheels in the back bergs front and belts
Might be worth to check that the pump you use has an accurate reading and that you let no air escape when removing the nozzle
Do TB motors come battle hardened? They don’t, right?
Assuming they don’t, what circlip plier size would I need for them to disassemble?
The 10mm size circlips. Not sure what size pliers those are
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Am I able to see charge percentage through the BMS? Currently this is what I can see through the app, but can’t make sense of it if it is telling me battery charge percentage
(And while this is here, do I ever switch the battery off using the button seen in the pic?)
That is your charge percentage indicator.
Given that your cells are at a storage charge but the BMS thinks the pack is full, I suspect a configuration error.
Please post a screen shot of the config page.
If the config is correct, then it could be that the BMS uses a moving average or some such to determine the percentage of charge, and in that case it probably needs a full charge-discharge cycle to calibrate.
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I’ve never put any info in, the battery builder configured it for me I think
here are the screen shots
And yes, the battery is definitely not at 100%
DUTY CYCLE CURRENT LIMIT START
What firmware versions are affected?
I’ve been running 5.1 on my 4.12 vescs and don’t remember having ever touched that setting.
E: seems like 5.1 and 5.2
What could be the cause that i have never experienced it (i mean I’m glad, but why not me) Am i pushing the board not hard enough?
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The bms measures the current passing through to determine capacity left. As long as it’s passthrough it will never show under 100%
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