Thanks! Can I also use this on motors without the sensor cable?
yes
1 Like
Thanks, so there’s no downsides in keeping the throttle pegged all the time in terms of efficiency? If I were to do a gear change, what top speed should I aim for? The one time I did check amps usage was going uphill at about 75% throttle, which was around 4A, so I think I should have a reasonable amount of headroom. The motors are barely warm after a half hour ride.
1 Like
Well now, i didnt say that 
On the same gear ratio, running at full speed is somewhat less efficient than running at a lower speed. This has more to do with air resistance increasing as you accelerate, but it also had a bit to do with the efficiency curve of our motors. There’s an RPM which your motor is most efficient at, and it ain’t 100% lol. (I dont know what it is for your motor, so dont ask 
)
That’s a personal question 
How fast do you want to be able to go, and how much torque are you willing to sacrifice?
That number seems highly suspicious to me. Still, pumping up the motor amps to get torque back isnt exactly hard. It’s just worse for your motor, and less energy efficient.
1 Like
I do remember seeing that core losses and iron losses balance out somewhere in the middle of the RPM range, which is why I was thinking it would be more efficient to run a slightly higher speed gearing and just stay in that efficient zone. However, I think that assumes constant amperage?
Yeah, but I was just wondering how fast people tend to go in group rides or in traffic. What’s the slowest you feel comfortable riding in 35mph traffic? I’m personally thinking 28-30, but I’m having trouble finding a 13T sprocket 
Me too, although that’s what I remember was displayed on the remote telemetry for both battery and motor amps. The entire thing seems suspiciously efficient compared to what I expected in terms of range. Granted I haven’t charged my battery to full yet or did a range test, but a 6 mile mixed terrain ride in 45 degree weather went from 3.8V to 3.6V, which seems low for a 620Wh battery on knobbly pneumatics. The remote’s dying way faster than the board is.
About to buy a multimeter for something non-Skateboard related but figured I could try and make sure it’s suitable if I need it for skateboard repair/DIY. Will a standard 10A fused multimeter be ok? Or do I need to fork out for something better?
Thanks
It will be fine. Make sure it can measure DC voltage up to 100V
You’ll almost never or actually never be measuring current above a few amps.
2 Likes
What’s the best way to store small tires such as some Bergmeisters I have stashed away…
Vacuum bags kept in an indoor closet?
i usually just keep mine in plastic baggies with some chalk smeared on them; it keeps them from sticking together
1 Like
How could I go about creating a 3d model that mirrors the curvature of a deck? Is there another way (i feel like there is a way with math) to find the curvature without having a contour gauge and plotting points on a grid to get the rough curve?
Get a stiff flat material like cardboard or wood, hold it perpendicular to the deck, and trace the deck profile onto it with a pencil laying on its side on the deck. That should get you an outline of the contour, which you can then take a picture of and trace again in CAD.
4 Likes
What is a good height to aim for from the bottom of the enclosure to the ground?
1 Like
can i replace 6900 (22x10x6) bearing with 608 (22x8x7) bearing in a pulley that uses 2 bearing each side? im 100% sure that the bearing seat won’t be deep enough for 7mm width unless i lathe it, i just need to know if it is workable in that way, i won’t be running them in high speed or anything, will be sub 25km/h speed for its lifetime
@b264 maybe u know?
1 Like
When I connect R+ to battery positive and R- to battery negative there is a pretty large spark every time. It is a 13s pack charged to 49v. What am I doing wrong?
Find a speedbump (speedhump) and roll your board over it (without standing on it)
If it comes within 5mm of it, it’s too low. Any higher than 15mm, is too high. 
So what I’m saying is that it totally depends on wheelbase, longer wheelbase needs more clearance. But also, it depends on WHERE between the trucks you’re referring to. You need an arc of clearance. If it’s right next to the front or rear trucks, it can be closer to the ground. In the middle is where you need more clearance. And that’s assuming no flex. The arc needs to be exaggerated if the deck flexes.
When you roll over obstacles, curbs, and rough terrain, the further you are from the truck, the more clearance you need. So the longer the wheelbase, the more overall clearance you need if the bottom is flat.
7 Likes
Yes you can do that. Just make sure to adjust the spacers accordingly for the 1mm thicker bearing.
I wouldn’t mess with the bearing seat
2 Likes
the pulley got no spacer between the 2 bearings, and i will double check if it will cause issue when i slide the wheel over the spokes over the puley, might need a washer there i think. thanks brian
You get 2mm more on each side, so one bearing on each side will stick out. I don’t see any issue with this as long as everything is still secure so i say gun it just like before
Also might work with 1 bearing each side?
2 Likes
So the sensor cable and the extension have both 6 pins but the sensor cable is to small and the extension is to big to fit into the ESC.
Great explanation, thank you!
1 Like