Yeah they’re fine at 12S and the power handling capability of the 1.6 and 1.7 are the same
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yeah ok will prob use split uart eitherway or i use a parallel connector which i keep in permeantly
thanks a lot
I don’t know if split UART is a thing. Is it?
If you solder the batt+ and batt- together on the ESCs, you won’t ever have issues with CANBUS.
edit: to be clear, batt+ on ESC1 to batt+ on ESC2 — and batt- on ESC1 to batt- on ESC2
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yep i got a splitter which i just ziptie in place so things cant move
split uart is a thing but a bit useless cause it wastes a uart port
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Was thinking of getting evolve prism lights for my diy. Anyone added USB ports? Do I need a transformer to lowered the V?
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What brand is that?
Boundmotor?
Yes you’ll want a buck to step down the voltage for those lights
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exway atlas carbon
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Thanks where would I get a step down one from?
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I don’t own any bergs rn so I can’t test but it should be a standard size - they work in my abecs/evolve/other wheels. Slightly oversized is fine too btw, as long as it doesn’t stick out too far.
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Honestly HFI just seems too finicky. I don’t want to have to worry about temp changes(within normal range) causing cogging.
I need to figure out what is making my board jolt from start in FOC sensored modes
Something like this from amazon will do. Up to 60V; not sure what voltage those lights are, but this should step down to somewhere in it’s range (down to 1.25-30V)
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Cheers man 
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O wait, just saw you’re from the UK; just make sure you get a buck with this:
Lm2596hv
in the name
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So I messed.around some more and found that one of the hall sensors is bad.
Anybody have experience replacing hall senors on turnigy sk8 6374 192kv motors?
Check what control mode all your vescs run. That means checking the other vesc over the canbus too. If it looks like it has suspiciously “default” values, it means that detection wizard didn’t reach out to it.
Might be worth to manually do foc motor detection and hall sensor detection on that side alone, restarting and see what’s fixed
1: 99% sure those lights are typical usb. Too lazy to check
2: those buck converters come in usb-out variant too, fixed at 5v
I did that actually, which is how I figured put one side’s hall sensor isn’t working, or unity just isn’t sensing it