Ohh I see, that makes a lot of sense. I’ll keep that in mind. Thanks!
When using magnets to temporarily hold nickel for welding, are small ferrous magnets alright, or are neodymium magnets required? I don’t see a safety risk…
The anchor icon
The stop icon goes back to coast or freeroll.
Ferrous usually are not that strong, the 6mm rare earth magnets I use are still not that strong
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Cut the heat shrink off the pack, pull the battery out of the heat shrink, cuss at the heat shrink/silicone abomination left over in your enclosure until it vacates the premises.
I guess in my situation it’s just abandoned the pack if I go silcone. I’ve got a bunch of 3m dual lock I’ll give a go first
Edit I probably have this stuff at work at one of the dealerships
I figured that part out. But for some reason it’s just jolting for a second and not being sustained like in the video
Nah that kapton could easily be persuaded to come off the cells. Would be messy, but do-able. That said, some folks fully commit and entomb their battery in silicone. @DerelictRobot did this for LoveChild, and I believe he credits the technique to @Sender.
Why are you looking to seal the battery into the enclosure though? With how little clearance there was in that enclosure, I would think that nothing should be shifting around or rattling too much. And if it is, a few well placed pieces of 3mm neoprene should pad everything nicely.
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Put your multimeter in continuity beeper mode and check the continuity from the phase wires of one motor to the phase wires of the other motor. I had a short from one motor to the other that caused all kinds of headaches and issues that looked similar to your video.
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How did you fix it? I’m trying to do some testing in VESC tool but when I use any of the controls my motors just momentarily click.
Check for shorts before trying any potential fixes. When diagnosing a problem you want to change as few variables as possible, to keep the diagnosis process simple.
What turned out to be the issue on my drivetrain was 3 of the motor bolts (two on one motor, 1 on the other) were too long, and were touching the windings on the inside of the stator. I pulled all my motor bolts and ground about 3mm off them, and the problem was fixed. Put 500ish miles on that board, no problems.
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RT. Up/Down keys.
Wow, that’s news to me. I know Unity’s original FW works like that, but my 5.02 beta 7 definitely shows Unity as two separate VESCs and also behaves accordingly. I have set them at 50A max battery amps, each individually. Metr Pro Unity says I am pulling about 100A max from my battery.
Maybe I need to try a newer fw release.
Were the issues people were having with HFI resolved with the new firmware and VESC tool 3.0
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Mostly tuning errors.
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Matrix II or trampas trucks?
Would love to hear opinion either way!!
Just seems like it might be kind of hard to get ruining and max voltage dialed in directly
If you follow the video exactly and make a few attempts (write down the results each time) then you can usually get it working pretty well.
The one thing that I noticed is that motor temperature affects HFI tuning a lot so once your motors get hot it can cog a little bit.
But overall HFI is good. for now
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@b264 you probably know the answer to this
what were the issues with the focbox 1.6
are they ok at 12s?
thanks
The only issue is that in a multi-ESC configuration, typically two, if one ESC is powered while another isn’t, and CANBUS wires are connected, it can blow the CAN chip. Version 1.7 fixed this.
If you don’t use CANBUS, if you use a single ESC, or if you solder the power wires together, then 1.6 and 1.7 are functionally identical. Otherwise, just don’t unplug one while the other is plugged in.
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