Thats great. I will stay away from the sunkko and go for the flip sky 
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@b264 - Are there any easy methods for removing the inner races from old bearings to use as spacers? I remember reading that you do this, but I am not sure where to begin.
I’ve done this plenty of times
Use a small screw driver to pry out the shield first. Then use same screwdriver to pull out the bearing alignment piece. Finally, move one or two bearings out of their position by sliding them, and then the bearing practically falls apart
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Thanks for the instructions! I will give it a go later tonight.
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how do i pair my flipsky bluetooth with the VESC app? - i tried all the all obvious things (i.e. pair, add BLE Device Device dd menu), but no dice. can some help a out a noob?
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Afaik you can just bind it when you have vesc tool on your phone and not from your desktop pc.
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ah shit, i run IOS, not android. so that means my windows PC can use bluetooth? (on a unity)
FTFY
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daaaaayum. ok, i guess im buying a fucking android.
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My buddy used these trucks. We tried to put Trampa dampeners in them and the size was off by a lot, there was no way to fit them in without the tension being crazy high. Don’t ask me how but he learned to ride them without dampeners up to ~28mph.
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Alright so I’m a bit new to the sensorless motors, but if a motor doesn’t know what’s reverse and forward, is there a problem with the motors itself or is it registering by movement? I notice that it doesn’t move unless you move forward or backwards first.
Also, this does not look good:
I rode up hill, but while starting to move up hill. The motors did a reverse while I was going forward on the remote. Is there a way to fix that? Its programmed using FOC mode. Should I try BLDC instead?
I use hemostats, but the process @ShutterShock mentioned is good too.
The real answer though is YouTube. They have videos on that
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My pushbutton switch seems to be spinning around while I ride since the power logo orientation ends up different from when I start, how does everyone keep it tight? I’m thinking about some blue loctite, but the backing nut is pretty thin. Anything too tough and I’m afraid I would never be able to take it off.
Neutral cure silicone maybe? And just glob it on
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Prefer the Boundmotor style ones personally but they aight.
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I want to “splash proof” my deck, I was thinking about coating it with spray silicone or regular silicone and then pull it with a brush.The ground side of the deck is already kinda “plastified” but the sides and under the grip tape is naked wood… I don’t like glass frit so grip tape will be on the silicone layer. Does anyone know if this idea could be a reliable way to avoid water damage on a wooden deck…?
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2 questions
first how many amps can 4mm bullets carry and how does current work with motors
is it split between all 3 bullets or does each bullet have to carry the full current?
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I’m interested in this too. Some of my older boards are now starting to show signs of deck fatigue and some of the decks are hard to find.
Like where the paint chips off then it gets wet a thousand times. It does what wood does in those circumstances…
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I’ll try to do it on an old board and see what happens… I’ve a pretty nice fibretec dh 980 made of Poplar and Birch and since I’m planning to use it on off-road trails too I’d like to save it as much as I can from water and dirt.
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