Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Yeah could be

Wil see what I got and how much space I got

Hey @b264 is GE Silicone 2* the same is 2*+? Can’t find any of the 2*+

1 Like

Looking for AT Hub motors that are fairly affordable and decent. Don’t have to be fast (16 mph minimum) and work with 10s. I was looking at 100mm meepo PU but the weird MR30 connector is a turn off and I started considering real AT motors/wheels. Any ideas? I’d be fine with belt motors but I have a cheap ESC and I don’t want to pull too much amperage, plus loud.

1 Like

are these good? https://boundmotor.com/product/hub-motors/

2 Likes

Good to know. In that case just get some JST-MX 4pin cables I guess, still cheaper than getting a xenith.

1 Like

If it’s metric, then it’s probably M8. The inch equivalent would be 5/16"-18 or 5/16" -24.

1 Like

Hey me too, 12s6p p42a 4wd Hummie planned.
Not planning to route deck.
3p groups and escs in end compartments
2p groups in each central one :ok_hand:

2 Likes

Heard good things about them just make sure you get the swappable sleeves version and it is compatible with your esc as these are normally used with the bound motor vesc. I wouldn’t really count them for AT tho I originally thought you was taking about something similar to the Meepo city rider hub AT wheels. I have the airless wheels on the front of my Meepo mini and they are really good, did debate getting these but nothing wrong with my 100mm hub motors and bigger contact patch so :man_shrugging:t2:

1 Like

image
i know this goes between my battery and the parralel adapter for my ESC’s, but just wanted to check which side goes in where…my instincts tell me the ‘IN’ side goes into the battery, and the ‘OUT’ goes to the parallel adapter/ESC

Yup, that’s right. I set up the same one a couple of days ago

1 Like

thanks

1 Like

Yes

Although my local places stopped carrying that. I’d love if someone can suggest another kind that is obtainable locally

1 Like

get a kWeld

1 Like

@jamie Could we please get a new name for this thread? :slight_smile:

1 Like

Thanks do you know any spot welders that don’t use lipos and plus in that are decent or are they all not the best ?

How important is a VESC heatsink - i.e. at what point / what build config is it a good idea to pick one up?

1 Like

A heatsink and a thermal mass are similar but you should understand the difference.

On a single drive, a thermal mass at a minimum is all but required.
On a dual drive, a thermal mass is a good idea but you can easily slide by without it.

Going beyond that, heatsinks (with external airflow) are often better, especially for high top speeds and extended high speeds.

Thermal mass buys you increased peak power.
Heatsink buys you increased continuous power.

Peak power is mostly felt as torque; how much does it grab your pants. Continuous power is mostly felt as high top speeds, or how steep of a hill can it climb without slowing down.

1 Like

Adding thermal mass is much easier because you don’t need airflow and you can seal it inside the enclosure.

1 Like

There are mains-powered spot welders, but they’re generally worse than lipo powered ones in most ways.

You could always get a kweld and use supercaps instead of lipos, but you won’t save any money doing so.

Just get a kewld and some lipos. It’s the best, easiest solution and it just works.

2 Likes

Thermal mass = chunk of material used to absorb heat and reduce temp fluctuations. does not exchange heat. Water, concrete, brick, anything with a high heat capacity. Obviously not convenient to fill an enclosure with quickrete.

Heatsink = passive heat exchanger, in our case exposed to outside air flow through an enclosure.

I haven’t seen any aluminum mounting blocks / thermal mass used under the VESC inside the enclosure, but maybe I’m not looking hard enough.