just had it confimed its MX1.25 … so no it wont fit. think ill just bin them and get a xenith lol
Is there any difference between soldering ont he nickel on a positive or negative side of the cell?
If I have to solder series on one side which should it be?
I wouldn’t recommend it. The deck does flex a little, enough to break long nickel series connections
For the services connections you should follow it round the pack positive to negative or vise versa so it will be on both positive and negativeI believe like in the below that’s the route going round.
If that’s what you was asking ?
Series*
Equally could go the other way but for me it doesn’t make sense to connect the 2 sides at the end like that as you would have to bridge over it?
Again correct me if I’m wrong pro battery builders lol
Do not have nickel more than a couple inches running along the axis of the deck and normal to the ground, it will not bend right and the nickel will shear
If you have the nickel on the top or he battery (while the board is being ridden) it’s better and you can have a longer piece but it’s still not great
Try to use a braided copper or multistrand wire as the series connections and have compact parallel groups (should never be more than 4 cells wide, start stacking after that, and make sure the parallel groups are all stable without the nickel so silicone/HMA them)
The only case you can do a large nickel connection is a top mount brick battery in an isolated hard case
Any links for the copper braid. Your batteries are very slick and I was wondering where you source the the braid as I am also looking to use it on top.
Bonus point for any tips for the copper braid lol
Aww thanks dude
It’s called tinned copper braided grounding strap and you can get it from eBay for a decent price. Be careful soldering to it since it loves to wick the solder all the way through, and use the very ends to solder if you want the best current carrying capacity
Sorry if I worded it wrong
What I meant was I am doing double stack of 6p groups
So 3p under and 3p on top
Can I bend the nickel at 90 degrees on the top layer and from there solder to the next 6p group?
Will send pics in a mo
Are you soldering a 6p battery? That is going to be pain
No welding the p groups and soldering them in series
Diagram incoming
Ya it’s hard to make sense of what you’re saying without a diagram
This but double stacked? Yes that’s totally fine, you can do it by welding the tab to the top layer then welding the bottom layer to the top layer, that order has better current carrying capacity than welding the bottom to the top then welding the tab
For a 6p battery I would aim for 3 or 4 series connection wires if you can
Yep what your showing and then just using like 10awg wire to the next group
Red and green are cells blue is nickel (bent over at 90degrees at the top) green is 10awg wire
I’d use 2x 10awg so you are not bottle necking the current, but 3x 14awg is probably better
No worries haha, I will be attempting to replicate clean packs!
Thanks for the details would it be ok to use 1x 0.2mm thick plate for the P groups and fold over the top for services connections in the same arrangement as @Halbj613 is using for 12s6p
I picked up there and was gunna trim them down for 6P group straight stack.
Is 3x 14awg better then 2x10awg?
Also do those wires need to be kept a distance apart?
Or touching each other is ok
Don’t wanna short circuit anything
More thin wires will flex more and it puts less heat into the battery. I think they have similar ampacity but I could be mistaken
If they are all anchored at the same point it’s fine