@Geo_Engineering_FTW yup those cables should work for the mini foc, you need to remove the +5V and GND cables, and swap one of the connectors so that the cables are crossed.
No need to cut the cables, you can remove them with a tiny flathead screwdriver
The way they come it would connect esc1 CH to esc2 CL, you want CH-CH and CL-CL
ok, ill order them then. these come in a few days…bit pricey for what they are, but hey ho.
thanks again -D
Oh, thats kinda strange. In theory lower kv means more torque / amp. I ask anubis whether he will have 190kv in the near future. If not, should I go for 140kv 6384 flipsky, or 192kv SK3 6374? Tbh I am still leaning towards the 6384 FS, mainly because that would mean I have a keywayed shaft. There really isn’t any other option for me, because it has to be max 100€ shipped. And because of the gearing, to avoid belt skip, I think a lower kv would be more appropiate. 15T is kind of on the edge of skipping, while 20T will for sure not skip when set up well.
might wanna confirm with @YUTW123 that the mini roc plus uses JST-GH before ordering, but if it does those cables work just fine
just ordered
well you’ll know soon enough 
They should be JST-GH but I’m not 100% sure
you mean it’ll explode if they’re not right? 
…kinda serious about that tho…will they xplode?
That what I thought when I bought them. But Rated torque was higher also going from 6374 to 6384. The 6374 ran much warmer at 16S.
nah, there shouldn’t be any explosions, the pitch is right but the connector might be wrong.
Just remember to remove the +5V and GND cables, and power on both esc’s when the cable is connected and it should be fine
no, it wouldn’t work. such a long battery with nickel series connection won’t work on any deck. just don’t. you will have broken nickel, probably sooner than later.
What are the resistance values of the 140kv 6384, or in other words, how many amps do you think it can handle before overheating?
yep worked it out and can fit in series conenctions without routing at all
thanks man
So I did buy a Sunko Spot welder on Amazon even though I’ve heard mix feedback.
Having a look a came across A cheaper portable one but it is rated up to 0.12mm I wondered if anyone has used it or something similar? How good is it? Is it possible to do 0.2mm welds?
Battery from tinp in a hummie here. 12s4p p42a. Do not use nickel to connect the pgroups unless it’s bended 90° to either the face or the back of the pack. It does not flex much but it’s more than enough to create some odd wrinkles in straight nickel and start rubbing on cell wrapping.
Mine uses 14awg wires to connect pgroups and i have been pulling peaks of 100A from it
@Halbj613
May not be the case at 12 of 10S both are only rated at 12S but the slightly bigger one handles it better. I have heard reports of the 90kv and 120kv motors burning out at 18S.
You need more like 3.5cm total routed from a hummie if you plan on fitting an esc in there as well
I would stick with 12S, so it should be fine from that aspect. I am mainly worried about the max current it can handle.
got it all worked out
12s6p but im doing double stack and 4wd
so will be tight but should work
2x 14awg for each series! that’s a little bit more than single 12awg wire.
Does anyone know the elofty DD axel nut size? looks metric to me?
