thank you
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I had to make an adjustment to a parallel adapter i made and want to check if the positive and negative terminals aren’t touching (i.e. that no solder somehow melted to connect the two terminals) - i guess i would need a multimeter for this, but how do i do this without plugging in my battery since the multimeter only works if it detects current (right?)…and if i plug my battery in wont it short the battery?
A multimeter can check for continuity, usually in the resistance mode.
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You can just use continuity mode with the beeper function enabled. This is usually found on the resistor measurement mode.
If you put one probe on positive and the other on negative and it beeps, it’s shorted. If not, then you’re good. It should say OL for open loop if they are not connected.
If my explanation doesn’t make sense, just google how to use continuity mode on a multimeter
beat me lol
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cool, thanks man. just got to order a multimeter…dont suppose there’s ghetto way to check (i.e.without a multimeter)?
uhhh maybe like battery and an LED or something
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speaking of multimeter, any good brand recommendation? (yes, i still don’t have one 
)
an amazon link would be best, thanks
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ah great, thanks
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Fluke are the best. Buy it once. Buy it for life.
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couple of questions
what extra things do i need to connect these 2 ESC’s together?
this anti-spark needs soldering (presumably) to the ESC’s, were do they go (maybe i need an adapter?)?
the Bluetooth needs attaching, but the connector doesn’t fit in anyh of the ports on the ESC? where the heck can i connect it?
Basically just solder, but if you want to be able to change stuff easily later you’ll need 3 pairs of xt60 connectors to make the parallel adapter between the esc’s and the anti spark, and then a connector from the AS to your battery (xt60/90)
Regarding the bluetooth module you’ll need to swap the jst connectors on the module to some smaller ones, looks like the esc’s came with the needed connectors (bunch of wires in the 2nd picture)
So basically the following:
- Soldering iron
- Solder
- Flux (kinda optional, but makes stuff easier to solder)
- Shrink wrap/electrical tape
- 3 pairs XT60 connectors
- 1 male connector, same size to what is on your battery
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ok, ive got all this done (XT90 parallel adapter), but i thought that you needed to connect the two ESC’s together otherwise how will the bluetooth work? - the bluetooth will only be attached to one of the ESC’s, so presumably will be speaking to one ESC?
Also, the anti-spark - how do i attached that/Where does that go?
True, you’ll need a CAN cable to go between the esc’s, check the cables that came with the esc’s, there might be some 4pin ones there that will fit.
You only need CAN-L and CAN-H connected, remove the two other wires (but make sure to always power on both esc’s if the CAN cable is connected)
The antispark goes between battery (input side of AS) and parallel connector (output side of AS)
If the parallel connector uses XT90 then you just need the corresponding XT90 connectors to go on the esc’s and antispark so disregard the XT60’s then
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Is there any difference in efficiency or power between 200kv 1:3 and 100kv 1:6 on the same size wheels (or any other examples of this)
Thanks. The anti-spark seems easy, but ive googled CAN-L and nothing comes up (tried googling Canbus-L, but no luck either). Could you poss link the product i need?
CH and CL on the port labelled CAN on the esc you have.
Check if you have any cables that fit in the cables that came with the escs.
Connect esc 1 CH to esc 2 CH
Connect esc 1 CL to esc 2 CL
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yeah, i have no other cables that were included, ill need to source them…i take it they’re difficult to find?
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just solder the wires on the pins
no crimp no plugs no pain
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