I have used both motors and highly recommend the TB ones. The sealed Maytechs never impressed me and I had a lot of can-slipping-on-shaft problems. If you go for another choice then I would select something else over the Maytech sealed motors, like maybe Maytech unsealed or some other kind of not- Maytech motor.
I made the same mistake, thinking the “sealed” part was important but it’s mostly marketing really to some extent. It can make a small difference but that motor comes with its own set of other problems.
Rust is possible, but it’s usually pretty minor unless you’re going to be exposing things to sea water or salt spray.
You can always give the exposed steel areas a light coat of something to prevent rust - Doesn’t really matter what.
I’ve seen people use spray paint, epoxy, conformal coating, even nail polish would work in a pinch.
As long as it’s mildly heat resistant (So don’t use something like wax, which would melt) and reasonably impermeable to air/water, it should be fine.
I used a 10s lipo on a 10s liion esc on my first build. It worked, if that’s what you’re asking. However, don’t trust the battery indicator. At least on my unit, the battery indicator would say I had 50% left when in reality I had more like ~15% - 20%. My unit could have just been faulty, but it might also have been a difference in li-ion voltage curves and lipo voltage curves, I haven’t looked too much into it. Just be careful, you could easily overdischarge lipos, and that won’t be fun.
Note: I was using a LingYi esc and didn’t use a BMS, if that helps.
Yo I can’t figure out if I’m retarded or something is wrong here, I’ve got 2 BN220 hangers and 4 axels, but two of the axels go further into the hanger by roughly 6mm, regardless of which hanger they’re in. The other two stick out of the hanger with 55mm usable axel length, and these two stick out with 49mm usable axel length. Is this by design or is something wrong?
I’ll try that and let you know, but the 55mm axels stay 55mm on either hanger, and the 49mm axels stay 49mm on either hanger. All of the axels are identical so idk what’s causing it. I’ll go try to clean out the hole rn though
Thanks @ZachTetra what do you think the minimum size I could make a 12s6p battery. I was looking to double stack and not slanted as I have a unity either end and it’s tight af.
Well from the front it would be 3 rows of 6 with a stagger offset (about 145mm wide and 60mm tall), then you have 4 of those blocks end to end (in the ~300mm range) so the extra ~85mm would have a BMS and 2 ESCs stacked on the ends with a little bit of wiggle room for wires
Thank you, that was the answer I was looking for… @ShutterShock I was trying to power my landwheel esc with a 36V lion battery pack, bc my original LW lipo battery pack shows the green light on the charger, but nothing happens. Almost the same thing you had on your LW, so I tried out a liion battery pack but still nothing, so I thought there could be a difference between lipo and liion at same voltage.
Yeah this is what I was talking about. The lower end cutoff for liion in those escs is usually super low at 3.1v/c but you should really cut lipo off at Lowest, 3.4
@City-Blade-101 I could have been more explanatory haha sorry
Did you check its actual voltage? If a LW lipo cell goes dead inside the pack it won’t charge and will show green