It’s the Powell Peralta OG Bug but it’s a tad bit shorter than the McGill deck with the cheeks
Those cheeks are very good for high-speed stability
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Thanks for the suggestion. It looks good on your build. You’re running 184mm hangers and I’ll have 218mm so will stick out a dair bit more. I think I made a mistake going with the 218mm for a short board. I wanted the 180mm but motor mount wasn’t compatible. Should have probably looked elsewhere. Oh well.
I’m just gonna say it now, this doesn’t look great.
But if you want to feel awesome performance then try a 218mm/220mm hanger in the back and a 184mm hanger in the front. It rides so nice… looks like crap with the back wheels sticking out… rides awesome.
I have a number of skates set up that way.
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Another snowy day, so I decided to deep clean my cheap Chinese board that I’m currently using for some esk8 sessions in a dusty indoor parking lot…
For the first time after almost a year I opened the motors (black ones) and as you can see the magnets are covered in dust. Does all this dirt affect the performance and the life span of the motors?
I’m not worried for these pair of motors in particular, I’m more worried for the Myatechs 6365 (red ones) that will push my first DIY build… as you can see from the pictures the cheap Chinese motors don’t have big openings on the can, while the Maytech 6365 do have big holes on the can, I wonder how dirty they are going to be after a month of work and if they will be ruined by every kind of stuff that can get stuck in the copper wires.
Am I just being paranoid for no reason? should I just open the motors every now and then to clean them up? or should I try to cover those openings?
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This is normal.
no.
Yeah, it can. This is why I coat the windings so dust doesn’t get in between them. It can also reduce the bearing lifetime. It shouldn’t affect the magnets at all.
This is brake dust from automobiles, typically contains some metal, and is generally not a good thing, but it’s also not the worst thing in the world.
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Fair enough. Yeah digikey and mouser will have them. Didn’t want to go that route because I am so damn lazy haha. But this is definitely the proper way to go
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Anyone have any recommendations for front bushings? I’m running an LY Evo 40” with a 50 front/30 back split angle setup with riptide 93a barrel bushings in the back. I want something stable at 30mph but also able to turn well.
I would match the front and back bushing duros. But that’s just my personal preference. It’s more stable for me.
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Yeah that’s what I think I’m gonna do but I’ve heard that firmer bushings in the back and weaker bushings in the front is good sometimes
You can try that, but to me that makes things more unstable. That’s the specific thing I don’t like.
Adjusting the rear ANGLES is something totally different — and good — but I still like the same soft bushings on the back that are on the front.
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What is the best method to make sure the cables cant get off the receiver?
Mess everything up with HotGlue?
Should I solder them directly to the pins?
Just a drip hardcorE glue?
What do you guys recommend?
neutral cure silicone and/or a piece of string tied around it
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Tried the string method with everything lying around, but no success…
The plug is so weak and loose I will go the silicone route then.
Thank you, Brian
What has a bigger impact on motor performance, diameter or length (assume all will fit)? For example, if you were to start with a 6384 baseline, would there be bigger gains getting a longer motor like a 63100 or a wider motor of similar length like a 8085?
you’d want lower resistance for the same kv.
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It’s difficult to say, because each motor is built differently.
In general though, more mass = more better. So whichever motor is heavier, probably performs better.
More copper means lower electrical losses, more iron means you can push it harder before you start to get saturation, more magnets means more torque. More stuff, more mass, more better.
Of course, this as all assuming you’re actually pushing your current motor near its limits and you need more headroom.
If you have a 6355 and it’s not overheating, then doubling your motor’s mass isn’t going to really get you anything.
It’s like upgrading just the GPU on a computer to the max, but leaving the weedly dual-core CPU alone - You’re not going to see nearly as much improvement as the GPU specs suggest, because the CPU is severely bottlenecking the performance of the whole system.
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sorry Brian, do you have a picture? what type of gel did you use?
What’s your weight?
For my personal preference, I like split bushings. In fact, I used three different types of bushings on my last build.
Front was Haggy short barrels in both positions
Rear was riptide 93a (wine red) barrel board side and 90a (deep green) barrel road side.
Front was also 60° and rear was 30°
That thing was completely stable up to 35mph (max speed of that build) and could still make a 90° turn on a sidewalk. I miss that build every day 
Also cant forget about different bushing washer choices. I used riptide cupped washers in the rear (both positions) and in the front I used a riptide large flat washer board side and small flat washer road side.
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Is mr30 suitable for single belt drive?
I have one maytech 6374 motor with flipsky 4.12 vesc.
I plan connect those by mr30 connector.
Anything that I should notice or worry