btw, do you have a good technique for removing the yellow XT60/XT90 connectors from their grey clip-on sheath? (i.e 
)
i can get them off with a pair of pliers, but it’s never a very elegant procedure
exactly how i do it. Sometimes it’s enough to use the hands.
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fair enough, i was hoping i’d been doing it wrong and there was a better method. thanks
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Do I need to download some kind of driver for and older windows 7 laptop for vesc tool to connect to focboc via usb. At first I thought it was the micro usb cable being a “charge only cable” and not for data…but after 6 different cables …I’m giving up for now.
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It just needs to be the right size jst plug to fit in the uart port on the VESC. You’ll need four wires to connect uart
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Oh my gosh that solder work…
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i usually grab a pair of pliers or some other clamping tool, then wrap a cloth around the grey sheath, and rip it off lol. no damage 99% of the time
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Alright time for another question lol. Going to upgrade my esc for the first time since building. Its a maytech 4.12 and im running a single tb 6355. I think i’m going to get the TB 6 esc. Is that a good choice?
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I did some reading on rc universe about over gearing where the motor is running at excessive rpms with almost no copper losses leading to lots of heat. In response I adjusted the gearing from 30:1 to 24:1, which changed my average cruising rpm from 35000rpm to 25000rpm. I went on a 25 minute ride with the new gearing and the core temperature barely reached 37c by the end of the run.
Yep I think the motor manufacturer’s 50v (40000rpm) rating is more of a burst rating and not for sustained use so the 600kv version would have worked a lot better for my application.
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Yes, and i think 99% of people on here will agree 
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cloth is a good tip, will stop me tearing at the plastic. 
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shrink wrap on needle type pliers works well too 
best you can get, don’t look back 
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Okay, sweet. Good thing I’m not running dual motors or that would be pricey😬 Have a limited budget for this stuff haha, thanks!
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Has anyone here used the MakerX motors with good experiences? The 6354 model, specifically.
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You’ll start to lose efficiency when the motor spins faster than the speed that the iron losses exceed copper losses, often that’s somewhere between 5-10k rpm.
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Idk if anyone has bought them yet but they’re using the same manufacturer as TB used and their motors have always been great
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How’s the tolerances of MBS hub holes? I need to drill mounting holes on my sprocket, but since the board isn’t coming until after Christmas, I can only rely on the schematics online. Can I take them for granted, or could there be significant differences like the tolerance issues with the metal Matrix top plate?
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I’ve seen mention of being cautious of voltage spikes damaging ESCs; but when do they happen and why? And how do I prevent it?
They happen whenever, at random, and we can’t prevent it; at least not entirely.
Using the shortest possible battery cables and having some extra capacitance where the power enters the ESC both help, but it doesn’t completely eliminate the problem.
The best way to avoid having a Bad Thing happen, is to just not run your ESC close to its limits.
That means if your ESC is rated to 12s, then only use it with 10s. If it’s good for 100A, consider limiting yourself to 80A.
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This needs to be a thread. Can you make it?
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