Remember to save the inner races from your used/junk bearings! They often come in handy later for axle spacers.
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Hey guys I was trying to program my remote but I’m so confused with all that ppm pwm uart stuff…
I actually did some research but I find this topic complicated.
I connected my receiver to esc via ppm and I already paired my remote but reading on the manual: (see point 12) https://www.mhz-watercraft.com/media/pdf/ca/97/ba/Maytech-MTSKR1905WF-Manual-V2-0.pdf
I need a UART connection to see battery information on remote’s display or I can use hall sensors from the motors (I think). I just would like to have the battery, speed and km indicator displayed on the remote, I would avoid hall sensors if possible.
So where do I buy a UART wire? or are there any other possibilities to see that data?
These extra cables came with the remote, they fit the receiver but not the esc…any idea of what they’re for?
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So i’m curious, what’s everyone’s opinion on the bustin sportser for esk8?
I’ve seen plenty of great builds with it, it looks great and from what I’ve heard it rides nice. It does have a pretty good drop though so you’d want to take that into account when building
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I thinking about upgrading my first build and eventually switching out the deck. I’ve read a lot about it on the forums and I only found two issues which was the clearance and the fact that they may be a little stiff
For me, I had an extra UART connector with wires hanging around so I just cut off the other end of their provided connector and soldered it on. Probably the easiest solution
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Where’s the best place to get Samsung 40t cells?
Right now? Nowhere lol. They are out of stock at all of my usual wholesale places, and anywhere that does have them are charging e-cig prices for them.
P42A are a better cell anyways, and cheaper. Get them from BulkBattery.
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Been a while since I’ve played the waiting game…lol. Thx for the info.
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The wheel sprocket I bought has a center hole in it, and it looks like it just barely clears the Matrix II hangers. Is it ok, or should I ream it out a bit so it definitely won’t hit the hanger? No guarantees I can keep it perfectly centered if I ream it.
If it fits, it fits.
Reamers are self-centering. They follow the hole they’re embiggening.
As long as it clears, it doesn’t matter if the center hole is centered or not.
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Well I was more worried about any impacts or whatnot that might cause momentary warping or something, which could cause it to rub. It is attached to the wheel after all, and not the hanger itself. In theory the rim should be stiff enough, but I’m not sure, since it’s less than 2mm of clearance.
That’s true for a reamer, but I’ll be using a step drill bit because I don’t have any reamers that wide, and they’re slightly spiralized. If it’s not centered, it becomes unbalanced and could potentially introduce vibrations. It’s not going to have a huge effect compared to a tire, but every bit counts.
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Ehh, 2mm of clearance should be way enough. If your setup is flexing that much, I think you may have bigger issues 
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“clearance is clearance”
As long as it clears, matters little whether it clears by 0.1mm or 10mm
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how are you doing the 30:1 reduction? 36k rpm seems high. likely better off w/ lower kv.
is it safe to swap the XT60 connecter on the Maker X Mini Foc PLus with XT90 ones?
for ref
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Yes, if you are competent at soldering. No need to even be good, just competent.
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im a pro ;-D
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Then just skip the XT connectors and solder the whole circuit 
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how do you know its uart? I mean the wires must be green and white or it is not important and you can make a connection by soldering any type of wire…?