Thumbwheels for me are like driving a car with the gas and brake pedal reversed. It’s no problem. You’re a smart person, you know how to operate it. Until: in a split second a car pulls out in front of you, and by instinct you SMASH the brakegas pedal… Oops
Same thing for me on esk8 when I switch to thumbwheel. It’s largely fine, until there’s an emergency situation.
Someone suggested a long time ago to just use the thumbwheel with the opposite hand, which is a very good idea. That way you develop separate muscle memories for each control type. I never tried that. But it’s a fantastic idea I though was worth re-mentioning.
Uuuh…
When you’re “smart reversing” and you press forward you start going forward. I mean it automatically brakes, stops, and accelerates forward in one continuous motion.
Only when you’re going backwards, release, then press backwards again it’s fucky because it brakes first and then takes the smart reverse function from 0 speed
that’s what happened to me, tried the trigger style twice, flew off twice because i pull my index finger when braking, and there i go. should be glad that i was on near perfect surface and slow speed when i tried it, so it doesn’t hurt
But it doesn’t? Pressing backwards will never move you forward, it’s just the unfortunate place where smart reverse trigger is located, making you fully brake first. If it wasn’t there you would start that duty cycle from speed, locking your wheels which is even worse
What you call “braking” is the same thing as “moving you forward”, if you’re already rolling backwards.
While rolling forward, brakes accelerate you backward.
While rolling backward, brakes accelerate you forward.
Either one moves your speed closer to zero.
Applying brakes in reverse, to me, is the same thing as applying throttle — because you require the exact same body brace to keep your balance standing on top, as-if you just pulled the throttle.
If you’re rolling backwards, and you request “more backwards speed” and brace your body for that to happen, a sudden braking towards zero speed is the opposite motion I’ve requested, which is likely to attempt to knock me off balance. That IS the problem.
…soooo if I use the thumb for braking and index for accelerating with my remote and I want to go halfway up a hill (riding rear-wheel drive) stop accelerating, slow down because of gravity and then ride down the hill in switch (front-wheel drive) how should I set up my vesc for that…?
another example: riding regular than 180 slide to switch and roll away
You can use current mode which basically is forward acceleration and backwards acceleration.
So to brake basically the ESC tells the motors to go backwards (once you reach 0km/h it will start reversing.
Or you can use current with hyste.
Same as current except to go into reverse you need to come to a stop then release the trigger (thumb in your case) and then press it again and then it will go backwards.
In both cases you will be using your index finger (acceleration forward) to brake on the way down the hill in your example
Hyst is good when you are going down hill and have to stop at trafic lights because then you can stay in one spot by using a bit of current in reverse to fight gravity without putting a foot on the ground
Is there a thread on here dedicated to the sounds produced by different drives?
I often find my myself wondering how the sound of such and such geardrive compares to another, or what helical vs straight cut versions of a drive sound like. Or maybe someone is deciding between belts and direct drives and they want to hear the sound difference. idk just a thought…
If I made the test correctly there is actually continuity between the + esc wire and the FET pins… I’ve already turned on the complete circuit and configurated the motors, nothing bad happened but if it can be dangerous I’ll definitely try to fix this.
Tomorrow I’ll check the other esc.
… I can try to heat up the solder blob and remove a small part of it or are there any other ways to do it?
Is there any way to test an ESC without a battery? It’s starting to seem like my batteries will arrive after the warranty period of my ESC will expire, and I’d like to test its basic function before then. I do have a tiny 3S LiPo pouch, but I’m assuming that’s not high enough voltage to even power the switching circuit. I don’t have a power supply either, but I do have a charger brick which doesn’t seem ideal.
Should I bother with antispark at that voltage? The battery’s XT60 while the ESC is XT90, so I’m thinking about straight bridging them with some wire without soldering connectors for the test. Also I’m not sure if current might be too high when it does motor detection - it’s only a 1Ah battery, and I don’t want to push it there if I don’t have to.