You have to use the Linux version as @bollen mentioned
https://vesc-project.com/node/1
Also probably just easier to borrow another computer that runs Ubuntu or Windows…
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got one windows computer and an android phone but the windows computer takes like 6 months to get running every time you use it
you dont by any chance know the name of the vesc tool i need to open the package and install it in linux terminal
just download the appimage from vedder
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I’ve seen some good things about the new flipsky motors so far; Between those and TB motors, which ones should I get? Or is there another motor I should look at?
Mainly considering the flipsky motors because of the battle hardened aspect
They are terribly balanced
Also… their customer service and “warranty”
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If you use Crostini it will install a debian container by default, you can use the pre-compiled vesc tool from vedders page with that or grab the source from github
If you’re unfamiliar with linux I’d suggest running an ubuntu container, instuctions for that can be found here: https://ubuntu.com/tutorials/install-ubuntu-on-chromebook#1-overview
You should be able to get both cura and vesc tool running on the chromebook with that, but like I said, it might not be as straight forward as just getting a proper windows or linux computer.
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I just can’t understand:
Will a higher gearing draw more power / shorten my range?
Let’s say I always drive 35 kmh
Would a smaller gear ratio with 40kmh max or a bigger with 50kmh max be more efficient on a even road / steep road or even same?
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5.3A for a 10s2p p42A pack is within limits? I saw multiple mentions of 4A per cells.
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Just buy from banggood?
Got my 120€ back for two 6355 motors which had nothing but broken sensors…
Just riding sensor less with free motors now and they work perfectly fine!
But of course Flipskys quality is still very incostitent…
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If they’re recent they may need 5v to work. Good to hear even banggood has better customer service than them directly lol
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That pack can slow charge at 8A and fast charge at 16A, then discharge at around 50A safely or 90A peak
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Slow charge at 8A? even 5A charges it in like 30 minutes and thats what i consider fast 
16A = 10 minutes damn.
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You’ll get slightly worse efficiency and lower acceleration.
Let’s say you draw 32A at 40v to run at 36km/hr geared for 40km/hr
If you gear for 50km/hr, at the same speed you’d draw 40A at 32v (pure example obviously)
Now the simple rule is that amps = heat and losses. Difference is not big here but if you gear for 80km/hr it won’t fare too good, that is ignoring the lack of acceleration
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Tis the future, what can i say. They’re rated for 1C slow charge and 2C fast charge. At 4.2Ah that means 4.2 and 8.4A
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Does riding at maximal speed of a gearing draw more power?
Heard someone saying riding at 100% speed on a low gearing is bad and you should rather ride 70%-80% on a bigger gear ration in that case
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If the motor doesn’t exceed roughly 8000rpm, no problems topping out the speed (that is, if you also set duty cycle current limit start at 85% since it tends to cut out at the very top end otherwise).
8000rpm because that seems to be the point from where it becomes inefficient to just spin the motor itself, and bearings start crying in a corner
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Sorry, can’t really follow you.
I’ve heard of the magical 8000RPM limit…
What’s duty cycle current limit? Can’t remember to have set such value in my configuration…
Currently my gearing is to small… Top speed should be little over 40kmh (perfect for me) , but the power very scarily cuts out at like 35kmh… Which is the reason I ride around 30kmh because I’m scared atm
It just stops pushing you faster, resulting in an “brake like” impact that makes you nearly fall of the board…
Will change to a bigger gearing because of this to not hit this weird point where the board just won’t go faster and you lose control
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Do NOT change duty cycle, just duty cycle limit start, on each and all vescs. You do not reach full speed because by the time you’re at that speed, your battery sags from current being drawn from it
Duty cycle current limit start smooths out the current release as you reach top speed, so instead of instantly cutting out, you start losing acceleration gradually between 85% duty cycle and the maximum 95%. A 10% buffer really
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