Does anyone know if I get a new Enertion remote. Do I need a new receiver or can I use the existing receiver(enertion)?
They should work just fine. You will have to go through the initial pairing process again to associate the new remote with the original rx though.
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I want to get a 3d printer that works out the box and just goes
What is the recommendation
Preferably something with a decent print size
Was looking at the cr10s pro v2? Any thought
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Help. What solutions are there
Only way to mount the gear drive is forward unless I get longer trucks
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Mount the baseplates non-dropped
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Fair enough
Didn’t think about that
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What does it take to print out a perfectly round large circle on a 3d printer?
A lathe to turn your printed part on after it comes off the printer lol.
Short of that, literally perfect x/y/z steps calibration, belt tension, etc.
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I mean, it’s always in small steps, like it’s made out of 200 straight lines instead. Is it normal?
What do you mean? Got a picture of what you are referring to?
Did you make it in Blender? If you have it in a CAD software, you can specify the granularity of the final STL so it’s more round.
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You can always see the steps it takes when turning
Edit: also how do i god damn tell cura where to end the layer? It always ends it on the exterior layer and makes a seam you can see in the last picture
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In solidworks. Where do i go to tell it to give me the best quality?
Yep I agree with @frankthedragon, i think thats an issue with your model not having high enough resolution.
As far as the seam goes, you should be able to set your slicer to print exterior walls first before interior ones.
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Bit of a noob question from me that I could probably figure out by doing my research, but in case someone knows:
People buying external heat-sinks – how much current do you draw and for how long? I.e., what would be some good battery current per ESC values to determine if one would require an external heat-sink? (I know it depends on the ESC, so let’s say the ones based on vesc 6 – Trampa’s, TB ESC, ESCapes, etc.)
For example, I’m guessing that an average of 30A battery per ESC should be fine without an external heat-sink, but 60A bursts would require one for longer rides? What have you found to be the case?
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It really all depends on your climate. I would look at your logs to see if you are getting heat build up in your ESC’s on an average ride. Or if you ever experienced thermal throttling from your ESC’s.
On my last build, I pulled an average of 30A’s per side from my VESC6’s, bursts up to 45A. They never got more than warm, but that doesnt mean they wouldn’t benefit from a heat sink.
Any amount of heat generated means you are losing power and efficiency to resistive losses. As things heat up from those losses, the resistance goes up, making more losses. Keeping things cool means more efficiency, even if its only a few degrees difference.
That said, there is definitely a point of diminishing returns, which I think is really what your question is about.
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