Size and weight is virtually 0 compared to the weight of the battery and the fact that they will lay inbetween the p group connections. But finding that one 12s 10A+ charger that is a float charger instead of trickle will be quite the task…
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Pic?
Anything obviously burned? Pinched cable?
Did it work before? Changed any setting?
Vx1… can you try to connect it via uart?
Also, very carefully measure the voltage coming out of the esc between ground and vcc and 5v. Should be 3.3v and 5v. Anything else and it’s not powering on the receiver
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is a sunkko 737g worth getting for a good price?
i read before edit
why is that are they all that bad
i had a sunkko 708ad and it was ok for the time i had it
I would highly recommend buying a battery from the Parts Market
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i have and do
would be interested in a welder for the future though
thanks for the advice
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All screens that you have messed with in any way.
I won’t say it is literally impossible to give too much detail, but given how little you have at this point, you might as well try to prove me wrong.
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The chances of you being able to remove it without damaging the rest of the bits (the windings, the stator itself, the bearings) are very low.
If you absolutely NEED that piece off at any cost, my suggested plan of attack would be something like this:
- remove the sensor board.
- Remove both bearings. Heat may be warranted. You will probably damage them and need replacements before reassembly, otherwise the will be really crunchy.
- remove the windings from the stator. Not strictly necessary but you may end up damaging them, so best to prepare yourself to replace them either before or after.
- heat the whole assembly up to about 150-200 degrees celsius.
- press the aluminum core out of the stator, and the endcap will come with it. Be careful not to damage the stator while pressing (support it from all sides if possible.)
Long story short, don’t bother unless you plan to buy a new motor.
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Fully agree
Unless you’re doing that professionally and have all the necessary tools and knowledge - absolutely not worth it with a (just a guess) 100$ motor (time investment, new bearings and so on)
Sometimes a motor has to go, just like an old wheel 
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Yep you have to set your “overvoltage release” to whatever you want your pack to charge up to. So 4.19v per cell.
In case you haven’t seen it:
Basically what is happening is that your pack gets to 4.21v for a tiny amount of time, the BMS cuts off charging, and then your pack equalizes down to 4.13v per cell. With an Overvoltage release setting of 4.11v, your BMS wont resume charging until the voltage is below 4.11v per cell.
Make sense?
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I actually copied these when I was setting it up 
Idk if it’s just the version of the app I’m using, but when I try to change the value of the overvoltage release to 4.19, the app forces 4.16 to be input instead:
Is there any kind or official list of esk8 speed records? What is the current record?
Exact same thing just happened to me on my VX1 
. I was riding along fine and then no connection. I’ve tried unplugging reciever then reconnecting but get nothing 
. I’ve picked up a Hoyt St Puck to replace it.
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Is it possible to have a completely dead p group 0V and still charge and operate your board?
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No, once a cellgroup reaches 0 volts they become (nearly) non-conductive and close the current circuit.
If this happens mid ride ur going downsies.
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I thought so, needed confirmation…thx
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Apparently, it is, because it’s happened to me before.
Not sure how… Just noticed it was stopping charge 4V shy… investigation reveals a 0V P-group.
But I’d been riding it and wondering why the charge was stopping short.
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