But even small pneumatics seem unsuitable - I got the impression that 6inch bergs were the smallest pneumatics available and you would be giving up significant torque and flying along at 80km/h even with them.
Surfanachos hubs projected price (8 can’t find the thread/am on my phone) was something like 250 bucks, which is a bit much for me, though maybe Boardnamics will make some different gearing option for the GD systems, I think that’s the best bet imo
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https://www.nkkswitches.eu/products/Rockers/Rockers%20SW/SW3001A/
I’m trying to get 12V out of a 14s battery via a DCDC converter.
The application is a USB power supply, and the DCDC converter is 12V8A.
I’m thinking of using this switch between a battery and a DCDC converter.
Rating is DC30V15A.
Is it dangerous to use this switch?
I think that 2-3A can be used even with DC60V. Is this idea wrong?
I’d try it like that.
What is the worst-case scenario, the lighting system stops working? If that doesn’t involve streetface then it might be worth a try.
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For smaller batteries and motors like 5055, 15mm belts are kinda overkill anyways.
You want the narrowest belt that gets the job done and doesn’t skip, otherwise you’re just losing efficiency for no reason.
On my compact build, 12mm belts with idlers run great, no skipping at a fairly low tension.
+1 for BN idler mounts 
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Your use case is well within the ratings of the switch, so you should have no problem. Throw a 15A fuse between the battery and the whole lighting circuit if you are worried about something.
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Probably not a big risk. I’ll give it a try.
Anyone know any enclosure vendors, or a custom build? I have a Vanguard deck with a 12s4p 21700 battery pack.
Thank you for your opinion.
I will try it soon.
I have 6374 motors 190kv I think are rated for 80A (but website says 85A) On fox detection sometimes they’ll be 73.1A , 78.4A , 74.8A, etc. Should I set them both for whatever the VESC sets as default let’s say 78.4A? Or bump them both to 80A?
You know more about your motors than the VESC tool does. Those numbers it spits out are based on a lot of guesses, and dont take into account the limits of your hardware.
That said, running your motors at (or just under) the rated current for a long time is usually not very good for them. I would start out at 50A and bump it up if you need more torque.
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True. I changed a lot of the VESC defaults. I lowered to 40A but motors get really hot after a few mins and make a loud screech sound while riding. At 60A the screech is gone, but motors get fairly hot, touchable. I know these are 6374s and my 6368s never get this hot, so I was hoping if I can just set them both at a 75A or 80A
Increasing your amperage is going to increase heat. I have no clue what the screeching is about. Possibly a busted motor.
If a motor bearing is seized, that would explain the screech and the heat.
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How does everyone mount a top mount battery box onto a concave deck (MBS pattern)? I want to avoid drilling holes, and I originally wanted to velcro it down. However, being a concave surface, it’s not going to stick except at the edges of the board. Plus it wouldn’t let the deck flex well. My next idea is a velcro and spacer sandwich in the center, but I want to see what other people have done that’s probably a much more elegant solution than what I can come up with.
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I drilled some hol-
Oh…
Ill show myself out.
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That could maybe work if you can match the curve of the concave close enough, and bolt the spacer to the enclosure. On my Hearo Bro, I drilled three holes in a straight line on the middle of the deck, which has a very convenient flat spot for the enclosure to sit.
I then put a layer of neoprene between the deck and the box, to absorb vibrations and provide extra friction to hold the box in place.
I did it this way so that the deck is still free to flex on either side of the box. No clue if its going to work or not 
might just snap the deck along the perforated line I have made lol. Or could just pop through the bottom of my box when the deck flexes up into the outside corners on the box.
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so a pebble got stuck in my gear and left an indent in one of the teeth of the belt. should i replace the belt?
Yeah the concave is the tricky part. Good shout on the neoprene though, I could use that as a gasket and damping material around the edges of the box and the center spacer. I think I can get by with a 3D printed spacer, with some neoprene on it for vibration reduction. Getting that curve right will be a bit of trial and error though.
How bad is it? Probably not. I usually just carry a spare belt and replace them when they snap or start slipping a lot. I have had belts with 4 or 5 little tears or hole in them from rocks. No big deal.
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