For clarification of wiring this BMS (in bypassed discharge/charge only) and BMSs in general, do we:
Solder balance leads to the negative end of each p group without connecting the jst to the BMS board. And thus having one balance lead on each p group but the last one (pack positive) where there are two balance leads connected.
Solder B- of the BMS to pack -
Solder C- of the BMS to the negative of the charge port then C+ of the charge port to pack +
Connect balance leads to BMS
I already looked at LLT’s steps (also the many BMS diagrams on here) , but I want to double check I have the order right so I don’t accidentally fry anything
Slight differences in motor Kv. (they are typically manufactured with a +/- 10% or +/-5% tolerance)
Differences in PWM (“PPM”) pulsewidths. Are you using PPM? Tune it so the control goes from -105% to +105% as you physically operate the throttle control from one end of its range to the other. If one motor is stronger at top speed, set that one to -107% to +107% instead and keep the other side -105% to +105%.
Also OMG use the desktop application LoL You crazy
Maybe makes sense to calculate what kv they are. Apparently 170.
Yes sir. Mini remote.
In my case that should be the right one, as i steer left?
Also, isn’t that only possible if i use split pwm? I only have the receiver connected to the master.
metr is love, metr is life!
(at least when I’m not home, otherwise it’ll get programmed via the vesc tool)
I don’t think so. If your left rear wheel pulls forward, it turns the truck so that it’s steering left. Think of the motor pull on the bushings and pivot, and not on the vehicle as a whole.
I could be wrong through. Torquesteer is often confusing as it’s often the opposite way than you’d think.
Hey everyone. Weird scenario. Looking for some guidance. I already have an Ecomobl ET and I basically got a 12S5P 40T battery and enclosure from them. Along with another ET deck drilled to match this larger enclosure and a custom 50 amp continuous discharge version of Lingyi meant to better take advantage of the 40T pack.
So, I have all of those components and the original idea was to use my existing ET motors and trucks and just create like an updated version of my ET.
But since my ET as-is runs well I’m now thinking it might make more sense just to leave it as it as and use these components in some other way. Perhaps adding some Matrix 2 trucks and some different motors, and those new gear drive mounts that are gaining in popularity to replace belts. The basic idea would be to have 7 inch pneumatics on most of the time.
Here comes the questions:
Can I use some of these Maytech/Flipsky motors with this 50 amp version of Lingyi I already have?
Are the other ESCs so much better that i should just scrap Lingyi entirely and move to some version of VESC and if so which one is easiest for noobs to work with? Part of the reason I’m looking at this 50amp version of Ligyi is because I have a spare remote for it, and because it integrates into lighting the enclosure and front lights have. I could probably even repurpose the rear brake lights if I wanted to from my ET onto the Matrix trucks somehow. The Esc currently allows for those light controls. But I can be talked out of this if the VESC options are significantly better.
What motor and gear mount setup would you recommend for high torque hill climbing, all terrain and general street use too? I don’t prioritize top speed all that much. 30-35mph would be fine for me.
He is riding 6" street tires in DKP trucks, presumably with a low gear ratio for street use. That is not an “offroad” setup by any means, and you should expect to bounce all over the place riding off road on a build like his.
This is actually a pet peeve of mine. Folks in the esk8 community (especially pre-built companies) call pneumatic wheels “AT wheels.” This gives folks the false impression that their evolve is an offroad machine. Thats not the case.
If you want to see what a true off road esk8 looks like, you need to be looking at eMTB’s. They have massive pneumatics (8" or more, usually) that have a knobby profile, not smooth. They have big, wide decks and bindings to hold you in place, so you have maximum control on the board and you dont get bounced off of it. They also have channel trucks, which are a totally different truck geometry, and are much more stable on rough terrain.
Im sick and tired of esk8 companies calling any board with pneumatics an “AT board”. Its false advertising and its going to get their customers hurt when they try to ride it off road.
Can anyone tell me whether M4x10 screws are ok to use to mount a motor? It looks like it would be really close to the windings. I’ve got FLIPSKY 6374 motors if that helps.
Yeah this is true, maybe all-surface wheels is a better description. I can ride my 6 inch wheels in a lot of light offroad stuff, but I wouldn’t consider them to compete with 8 inch wheels and channel trucks
I think the most suitable term I’ve seen thrown out there is a commuter board, like how the Meepo City Rider is defined. Great for rough roads like cobble or even a bit of gravel, and off road isn’t really the point of it.
My board has gone through many changes and upgrades since I first built it. Originally I had normal 70mm longboard wheels and a single 190kv 6384 turnigy motor (I believe, its close to those specs). With a 10s4p I was getting roughly 20-30 mile range. Do keep in mind that I am very light. I now have dual 5065 270kv flipsky motors with 6" pneumatics. My range is currently roughly 10 miles. I understand that pneumatics would reduce range. I also heard that dual motors doesn’t reduce much range. I was wondering if the smaller motors with higher kv is the main issue because it has to pull more amps to maintain the same torque. Would I gain some range back if I got larger motors? I live roughly 5 miles from campus, and there is a nice trail that leads straight to campus, which is very convenient for taking my board to school. This is the main reason I would like some range back but keep the pneumatics
I would select screws that poke out of the inside of the motor the bare minimum. You want at least flush, at most a mm or two. If they don’t poke out at all, there’s strength lost. If they poke out too far, then you risk shorting windings.
There is no standard length. Every make and model of motor is different, as is every motor mount, and both the motor and the mount affect which screws will or won’t work.
Not really, I’m afraid. You can get a feel for how thick the motor base is by looking into the holes or using a small poky tool to see how far in the windings are, then doing the same with (or measuring) the mounts, and figuring out the maximum safe screw length by adding those two together (minus a few mm for clearance).
These are the things that you give up when you move away from prebuilt or assemble-it-yourself kits, and go DIY. No two ways around it.
You crazy
