Drill it out as close to the hole as possible. Mix wood glue and sawdust and jam it inside the hole. Let it dry and sand smooth. It’ll essentially be “new wood”. Then drill a new hole and install a new insert.
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JB weld a sacrificial bolt into the stripped insert and unscrew it, then screw a new insert in with epoxy on the threads.
OR OR OR
Drill just enough of the insert out that you can install a helicoil into the brass of the insert. There should be enough brass in the walls of the insert that this could work. If not, you could always step down to the next size down with your helicoil.
For example, if you had an M5 insert, use an M4 helicoil like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HF8F5GV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_t8hPFb1WM1K4D
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Thanks everyone. I’ll end up abusing jbweld and installing a new steel insert in there. That area is very high stress so i’m hoping to remove the old one with little disturbance.
Until saturday when everything i just panic-ordered arrives, i’ll continue to ride as it’s my transportation tool
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That phrase makes me shudder.
The CAN protocol has no security whatsoever and is better for hardwired applications.
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u have to run two wires battery to esc anyway, is there not enough space for canbus cable?
I have a holy pro with channel. The channel is already full and covered.
True that.
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So my 3rd build (and still posting in noob thread) that’s taking forever to get all the parts is suppose to be a test board with really nice changeable parts so I can play around with different setups to dial in to what suits me most.
I want to keep a emergency loop key not as a main use but they are such a idiot proof reliable as back up. The issue is I want to make sure my wiring is not limiting or causing any voltdrop (2x 6374 motors ,60A eatch) so I’m useing a separate AWG10 (55A) cable from the battery to each VESC. Making a well balanced system
After playing around with some ideas of AS120 and past experience of the difficulty’s of using AWG8 or larger cables just don’t bend well in a case. I thinking separating XT90s for each side but concerned this might case issues of feedback if one was connected and the others wasn’t. Any one know the risks or dangers of this?
10 cents per circlip is a good price?
You really don’t need to at all, one is more than enough
You’re not going to pull enough amps for long enough to even make it warm up. 10awg is easily rated for 80a constant, especially with a silicon casing. It’s fine to run a wire to each esc but I still think that’s overkill
I’ve always run split esc’s off a y-splitter and haven’t had a single issue
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I must run them hard then both of my dule 6355 builds cables and connectors run hot over 40deg ish. this one iv used 6375 And jumped to 12s to try to keep the heat down. Bigger battery gearing super low. If my cables at 40 deg it’s adding heat inside my electronics and I want more head room. I would agree 10AWG is enouth for most people but this build for me is about looking at what I’m losing out on so AWG10 and XT90 getting a upgrade.
Full power up hills is a common ocurance for me and I normally gear low for it but I want this one to have a bit of speed as well hence the double drop and adjustable hangers to get me comftable over 20mph. so going for 12s 170KV 16-36 on 85mm wheels hopeing for high 20’s My only option is amps for the hills. stints at 60-80Amps I’m expecting. My comuter build xt90 gets hotter than I like I just have to back off a bit. Left the board with the ESC heatsink touching a stool at work got toled off when the boss moved it and it left some lines in the stool.
Dang that’s kind of crazy haha I don’t think my cables get anywhere over 30 degrees
Trust me you know when thay get hotter than that it’s like some one left some thing black on your dashboard in the sun and try to pick it up
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Hey, I’ve got another quick question. I’ve got a 12s4p board with a flipsky FSESC 6.6 dual. 52 amps per motor. I’m using dickyho’s solid rubber AT wheels, specifically these ones here:
I’m only getting about 15 miles of range on my setup, and I want to get some more range, preferably 20+.
If I got torqueboards’ pneumatic AT wheels, is there any possibility that the range would increase, due to the wheels being lighter? It would cost me the same to either get the torqueboards pneumatics, or get their 110mm urethane wheels with pulleys, bearings, belts, etc. I’m stuck between them. I really like the comfort of AT wheels, but I need more range. I could also swap between the urethane wheels and my AT ones, so that would be another benefit. Any thoughts? I’m pretty stuck
Which cells? 30Q? 25R? P42A?
Nope, no chance. The TB pneumatics are larger diameter, and will have higher rolling resistance. You will get worse efficiency. They will be more comfortable though, so there’s that 
This is the direction you have to go if you want better efficiency.
(Or you could pay a pro battery builder like me to make you a better battery 
)
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Samsung 30Q cells, and I’m running flipsky 190kv 6354s. Yeah, I was pretty sure that the tourqeboards pneumies wouldn’t help at all. Unfortunately, I don’t have the money for a bigger battery. I pretty much just built this board, I don’t want to go upgrading the battery yet lol. If I got the torqueboards 110s, do you think I’d be able to get 20+ miles? Currently, according to the stormcore app, I’m using approximately 16Wh per mile, and the battery is 518Wh, if I remember correctly.
Reduce you motor amps add a ramp on the throttle migh get you a few more miles
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That’s not even bad. I think I get 14wh/mi avg when I was on my urethane
Bergs are giving me minimum 22wh/mi
Sorry to ask, but how do I add a ramp on the throttle? I do know how to adjust motor amps though, do I use the VESC Remote section in the VESC tool?