Well if youre talking about extending your phase wires, then you are going to have to heat shrink each wire individually, no?
What approximate range do you think I would get with a 12s4p Molicell p42a pack running 2x 6374s and 100mm urethane wheels? Given fairly hard riding and a 140lb (~63kg) rider. Not looking for a super specific number - something like less than or more than 8 miles is enough precision.
MUCH more than 8 miles. On my 12s4p p42a pack I got 20 miles of hard riding on pneumatics. Urethane is generally a lot more efficient.
5 Likes
A general rule of thumb is 10wh/km cruising on 'thane. So calculate the energy of your pack (nominal cell voltage times series and parallel count, times the capacity: 3.6v x 12s x 4p x 4.2Ah = 725Wh), and you get a ballpark of about 72.5 km.
Obviously if you ride it like you stole it, and/or on rough terrain, and/or uphill, etc, the consumption is gonna be higher. Maybe double or triple. But almost 3/4 of a KWh will get you quite a ways.
3 Likes
I have one of those and they are very loud. I mean VERY loud. Like, louder than a car horn.
I haven’t used it, partially because I feel like using it would cause folks to dislike electric skateboards in general and possibly feel like passing ordinances against them. No need to go all 
2 Likes
Phase wires yes, Hall sensor wires probably not? They seem too thin for normal heat shrink tubing, so I doubt I can do those individually.
Put heatshrink on the wire.
Solder the wires together. Make sure it’s smooth with no sharp spots. Remelt and/or file it smooth if it has sharp spots.
Then coat it with sealant, such as MG Chemicals #419D or your girlfriend’s clear nail polish, and before that dries, slide the heatshrink over it and heat it up so it squishes the sealant onto the connection.
2 Likes
Target lol
Yo yo
Just received my brand spanking new tayto deck and instantly started mounting parts.
With the trucks I’ve noticed that it uses the old truck pattern (short), that also means that the trucks aren’t making contact with the deck on every part.
Couldn’t that lead to more stress on the bolts?
2 Likes
Put the thinnest possible spacer or cut a rubber sheet, job done. If the bolts make full contact they will be safe from repeated stress failures. This means you shouldn’t see any threads before the nut
4 Likes
I’ve got 2x 3mm rubber risers i used on a different board i could use for each truck. Maybe in the future some higher and harder ones depending on if i get wheelbite
The short pattern is “New School” and the long one is “Old School”
3 Likes
Anyone know what the biggest wheels a hummie deck can accommodate? With RKP in drop-thru config.
I have a set of TB Pneumatics but wanna be sure they’ll fit without any bite before getting the deck
1 Like
How wide are the trucks?
Yeah that really depends on your trucks and risers. I ran bergs (145mm) on haggyboard kahuas and didn’t get wheel bite, but that was top mounted, with hammock baseplates (which are very tall) and a 1/4" riser.
Personally using pneumatics on a drop through setup with a loaded deck I don’t really run into wheel bite on the deck even though only using TB 110 trucks but can have wheel bite my foot depending on how I place my feet if leaning hard for a turn so I watch out for that. Not an answer but another thing to look out for it trying to do drop through with pneumatics.
TB160s aren’t happening with BN220s, BN270s are your only real option.
1 Like
It also depends a lot on your bushings as well. If you are a heavy rider who runs hard bushings cranked down, then you are going to have less turning and therefore are less likely to get wheel bite. I like nice loose trucks with lots of turning, so I need more clearance around the wheels.
I second the BN270, but I cant say for sure that will work. Look around for hummie deck build threads and see what folks have used!
So I’ve been playing around with the idea of incorporating a BMS in my mountain board build.
At the moment I have two 12000mah 6s lipos that I have to take out of my battery enclosure to charge.
I’m looking for a somewhat easy way to incorporate a BMS so I don’t have to do This anymore. The components would have to be housed in my battery enclosure.
Not sure if this matters, but I am running a Unity.