Those are 100% only for use in metal.
They’re designed so once you drill and tap the hole (yes you have to tap), then screw in the insert, you can hammer those little pins down into the threads to lock the insert from backing out.
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M button is functional on DIY builds.
Got recommended this on amazon, has anybody tried using one of these? (Or just horns in general for that matter).
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-a13091700ux0069-Car-Horn/dp/B00FZUBUDG
Seems kinda extra imo 
They are very loud. Too loud imo. Just get a bike bell. No need for such extreme measures.
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Hmmmm, but what if I want to put the fear of god in the local cyclists? Maybe I’ll go with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-12Volt-Automotive-Electric-Motorcycle/dp/B07S92C6V2
He explained it. Thanks though.
Just get an airhorn and hold it in your off hand.
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How bad is it really to have longer battery wires (1-2ft)? There was a post here about two weeks back discussing it, but I didn’t see many concrete answers. I’m thinking about doing the standard MTB layout with batteries in the middle and ESC in the back, but judging by the post I should have the ESC in the middle enclosure with the battery and run the motor wires instead? If I’m running 12S while the ESC supports 16S, should I still worry about the voltage spikes blowing the FETs?
I haven’t experienced any issues with them in the rain/wet conditions. I have however had awful experiences with belts and snow. I snapped one belt on the trampa and a belt on my scrap build scooter trying to slide in snow. Maybe it is a coincidence, but both happened the same day in the same spot.
I have noticed that if my belts are loose, when wet they can slip. Maybe the belts when slipping stretch a bit when slipping out of place, thus breaking them…
Anyone else know about snow and wet conditions in general with belts?
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Thats what im doing on my eMTB, and its what I have been recommending to everyone. That said, there are lots of very experienced builders who do the rear ESC case and have no issues with it.
Thats a great question actually. I would guess that it would depend on how big of voltage spices you are getting, and how much inductance your wires have.
Well in general, elastic properties get worse in the cold, being both slower to stretch and slower to re-bound. I could see how that could cause the belts to be a lot weaker in the cold.
As far as rain and snow goes, the water on the belts would cause them to cool down quicker, so that might accelerate the problem. And you may be onto something with the belt slippage thing.
With how common timing belts are, I would be shocked if research and testing has not been done in regards to this subject.
If the ESC is rated for 75v/300a, then would I need to use a battery that is <=300a?
I.E. a 12s 28000mah 25c lipo or a 16s7p molicel p42a battery would be capable of over 200amps and should not be used with a spintend 75v/200a?
The ESC draws the amps it needs. The battery does not “push” amps to the ESC. So your battery can be rated for as many amps as you want, and your ESC doesnt care. The ESC will pull as many amps from the battery as you tell it to, no more.
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The only thing I don’t like about having motor wire runs is there would be 8 wires (although I guess the sensor ones don’t really count because they’re so thin) going to the back instead of just two, which would make a wider and more unwieldy umbilical. It’s not too bad if it’s mounted to the binding, but I want to see if there’s a way to run the board without them. Plus I haven’t actually figured out how to extend the Hall cables yet in a weatherproof way.
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Consider upgrading to your split end connector to XT150 are going to use over 100 Battery amps. SPlitend thermals are not great you wouldn’t be able to do 200amps BA for long.
Do they work on ribbon cables? I’ve only ever used them for single wire, and I feel like it wouldn’t conform perfectly between the wires.
No. That’s an “up to” number, not a “minimum” number.
As long as you set your current limits in the ESC appropriately, you could run a 300A ESC on a 10A battery and everything will be perfectly happy.
Now, that said, if you want 300A worth of performance, then EVERYTHING in the system has to meet or exceed that bar.
That means battery, cables, connectors, ESC, motor, drivetrain, wheels and rider.
It’s like a car: If your car engine makes 1000HP maximum, that doesn’t mean you have to be using that 1000HP all the time. You can drive it around town like a granny and never use 10% of that if you want.
But if you wanna drag race, you need the right fuel, the right tires, and all the things in between as well. If you engine makes 1000HP but the drivetrain can’t handle it, you’re not gonna go very far.
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Thank you, that was really helpful
Which one is the split end connector? Are you referring to the black/red connector for the power input/battery?
I noticed the spintend phase wires are 4.4mm bullet connectors. I though I saw another thread saying those are only good upto 70a but I may be mistaken. I’m wondering if those should be upgraded to handle the 100a.
