Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

U bolts I’ve also heard but X-things seems to be most common

The U-bolts are technically a slightly different thing

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cheers if you can send a pic it would be amazing
thanks

No writing, sorry bud.

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ah ok thanks though

will have to work it out with colour

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What vesc are you using them on?

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makerx if it decides to wok

they are supposed to be replacement of my carvons until i fix them

Maybe look at the threads about using the hubs with flipshit vescs. They reportedly have a wrong layout, so there should be an answer what pins had to be swapped. Orient on that maybe

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It should be pretty easy to determine empirically if you have a multimeter. I’d start by applying 5v to the red and black (positive and ground respectively) wires, and then using a multimeter to check for continuity between the ground wire and each of the other wires while slowly rotating the motor.

Hall sensors should toggle between open circuit and closed as the motor rotates. The temperature sensor won’t, and should show a set resistance.

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Hardwer lack of confidence question : is your vesc software settings (max erpm) enough to prevent you trop frying a cheap vesc when running (too) high kv motors on a (too) high voltage battery ?

Be careful setting your “max erpm” and make sure you test it at a lower speed first (like 4000erpm) to make sure you have brakes above that speed

I know for a fact that exceeding the “min erpm” causes you to lose all braking and throttle control until you footbrake or coast or crash down below that speed (in reverse)

Just not sure about in forward direction

If someone tests this, please let us know the result

I’ll get around to it one day probably maybe

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Probably, but it’s better to select components that work better together

Doing what you described means you will be using a lot more current than needed and hence less performance than if you had better matching equipment.

It also means that when you are going fast down a hill, what if you exceed that speed, what then?

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for sure,

my main board 12s4p is stuck waiting for my replacements gummies to arrive someday…

in the meantime i built a small and lightweight skate from old stuff i had laying there,
it works pretty fine for what it is,
but the motor mount was too specific and i could feat in only some 270kv motors i had,
so i made a 6s2p (40amp) which actally gives me more range and punch than i thought from such a small pack, but is still a bit small for my 10ish km ride to work

So i thought “hey, maybe i could use that 12s4p external charge,r i made for my main board and never actually tryed, as an alternative battery for longer rides”

But 12s for 270kv on a flipshit esc sounds like a fire hasard to me…
so cheking if it was doable anyway

small what? range or power?

If it’s range, maybe make another 6S2P battery and run them in parallel… for now

Or buy two 6s cheap lipos which can be changed to series later

sounds reasonable, guess i was trying to cheap out on cells ahahah
they tend to takes forever to arrive or to cost way too much in here…

i think i’ll go with the lipo, it’s always usefull to have some spare

Edit : yes, range it is

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Extending your range can also be as easy as changing your riding style also.

Don’t accelerate quickly, and go slower up hills. That right there can easily buy you a 10% to 25% increase in range

I have no idea how you ride, and on what terrain.

makes sens, this comute is a decent flat road, but much people : you have to break and reaccelerate all the time

First just try accelerating more slowly from a stop, and see what happens to your range.

i’ll try that

I am not sure what is causing your cutouts but that sounds really sketchy. I am happy to hear you did not get hurt. If it only happens with the VX2, perhaps that remote is incompatible with Metr Pro. I know you can adjust some of the UART settings in VESC tool, but don’t know where to start with that.

What ESC(s) are you using? Are you using duty cycle current limits?

Good luck sorting this out and please share what you learned about the “absolute maximum current” - this is a point of confusion for me. I was unable to set it lower than 400 amps on my most recent build and don’t really understand the implications.

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