Since I can’t seem to find a set of Abec bolt on pulley on 40t (need because weird trucks). Would keeping 36t but going smaller on the pulley have the same kind of effect?
The end goal is to swap from 90mm to 120mm wheel but keep the Samish torque
Dumb question but is there a way to read this fault?
Sometimes, randomly, because of flipshite hall sensors i get a decent cutout going full throttle from standstill.
I realise now that it lasts exactly half a second and then it’s back up again but typing fault/faults gives nothing.
Yes, i did change that value to 50ms now at your advice on both sides, but didn’t get the chance to push the board to it’s limits yet
Use the calculator on the top of the page. You can’t go smaller than 15t on motor pulley.
Sometimes a bit weaker torque is worth it for the extra top speed but you’re the judge of that
The only dumb question is the unasked one, so that excludes this one 
Yes. Without powering your ESCs down, connect to them and go to the terminal and type faults
You can also use some bluetooth solutions like Ackmaniac or metr
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This is opinion, some prefer strongly a high top speed — and others prefer strongly to reach top speed in the shortest possible amount of time. I prefer the latter
And yes, I agree, try not to go under 15T pulley size on HTD5M
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Got bluetooth, got the terminal up, got the “no faults registered since startup” on both ends of the canbus, even though the cutout really happened and left me with 3 angry bmw’s waiting behind me at a green light :c
My first hunch then is somehow the ESCs powered down and that’s why there are no registered faults — or you had a remote or radio problem.
Are you running discharge or bypass? How many radio receivers? Which remote? Is that intersection a high radio interference area?
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All fucky behaviour on my build revolves around the point where the esc switches between sensorless back to sensors. Full braking, full acceleration, even random stutters after i left the board a few minutes standing.
I managed to lower the sensorless erpm to 2000 and i can do an emergency brake down to that point, i can roll start and slam the throttle with no issues, but in that very small window from 0 to 2000 it’s witch hunting season…
Esc doesn’t shut down since it keeps the range travelled and doesn’t even disconnect from my phone. Running bypass, vx1 in uart mode, happens even in my yard
I’m getting more and more interested in running an external encoder, or just giving up to hfi…
Sounds like a cut and dry case of hall sensor malfunction. Turn them off.
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I posted this a while ago, erpm switch is set at 4000erpm. In the video i do full brakes down to 2000
A lot of times only one of the three sensors has shit the bed. Is it jerky between 2000 and 4000erpm?
I still think turning them off is a necessarily part of the troubleshooting process, even if you turn them back on again.
Does one motor do this or both of them?
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Both motors. Now since they are set to 2000erpm i feel safe on the board, although they are still technically shit.
I’m in the process of trying to reason with flipsky for another problem: both motors have a little play in the shafts and they sound horrible on any bumps.
Did anyone get a good experience with their warranty service?
upon further witch hunting
Seems like both motors have a specific spot where they lose track when there’s not enough inertia to push them forward.
Any guesses?
i don’t want to start a thread bc it’s too controversial…just wanted to ask a simple q:
Who HASN’T cancelled/pp disputed their Neobox order?
DM me if you don’t want to air this info. literally just want to get a picture of numbers. i (perhaps obviously) haven’t cancelled mine yet
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Phase wires
- MR60
- MT60
0 voters
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I find MT harder to seperate, which is exactly what I’m looking for in a phase connection.
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That’s the exway talking…real diy would touch MT with your mother’s penis.
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Feeling scrappy today?
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The Damon / Andrew scrap inspired my inner c##t. Thanks for closing it
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