Use as high kv as you need to be between 4000 and 8000rpm (seems to be around 200kv on 12s? Someone do the maths), then use reduction until you get the top speed and torque you want. If there isn’t any higher gearing to go for, then drop kv… or go for bigger motors, or both. It isn’t as simple as “lower kv= moar power”
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If anyone has an extra boardnamics motor mount or idler mount pm me. I’ll buy it right now. I Didn’t receive mine in my last order 
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4.2*50.4=10,080, so maybe around 160kv? (for 8064 rpm) also why between 4k and 8k rpm?
Also, does that mean an increased motor size would mean greater efficiency then (however big)?
I swear there was that guy with the fancy graphs around here but can’t find anything now.
Basically around 8000rpm is the peak efficiency. Beyond that mechanical and core losses begin to weigh down, and under that you need more amps to achieve the same power (W) output. More amps = more heat = more losses.
And keep in mind you will never, ever get to run a motor under any significant load at exactly 50.4v. and the battery does discharge as well. You also don’t really run your motors with the aim to reach maximum possible speed all the time, so if the theoretical max rpm passes that sweet point it’s fine
Oh and, a bigger motor has a limit. At some point the major losses start happening in the controller struggling to move that damn thing. Generally going one size bigger in motor dimensions to run it under limits tends to help. someone needs to come up with the exact numbers though
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well now i have another problem, my charger is showing a green light but its not charging the battery whatsoever and im not sure whats wrong
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Can you read the voltage from the board charge port?
Be VERY careful not to short anything
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There was. But along with those graphs came alot of drama and nonsense
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“4.2x50.4=10800” is correct, but that’s not the equation you want. You want (battery max voltage)x(motor KV), e.g. 50.4x170=8568.
High enough RPM to get good power without undue torque (power = rpm x torque), but low enough to not incur undue eddy current losses.
Within reason. Being underloaded is better than being overloaded because the efficiency dropoff is much less steep, but either is less than ideal.
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I don’t know what I was thinking writing that; I meant to have something like 4.2x12=50.4, 50.4x200kv=10800 
I’ll keep this in mind for my single drive build
Are you kidding? Another ESC question?
so If I have a battery capable of 40a and dual 1500w 6374s, what would y’alls recommendations be for max safety settings, batt, regen, motor, etc.?
Looking for max torque since its mainly off road and shitty road
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how do i do that? it still rides, i feel like it has something to do with my cheap 2a charger
He’s asking because at lower voltages, your boards batteries will start to sag
Ohhh I’ve seen those, boy oh boy those would be sweet
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ok well it works now, so im not sure what it was, must have been something freakin out idk
If it works now, then it wouldn’t be something your cheap 2a charger causing the issue. But I do highly recommend figuring out the issue instead of just riding it as “it just started working again”
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i spent $20 on that charger lol so it probably was the charger but not sure how to check
check with a multimeter and see if the voltage is outputting what is listed on the back of the charger. As @Athrx said, be very careful not to short anything.
Same deal with checking your board’s voltage through the charge port.
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Armattan has the carbon moonbeams available https://armattanproductions.com/pages/product_details/22238
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