I will read it later today at work. It’s like 1:36 am rn lol. I’m just trying to break my speed record and I wanna make sure everything is tuned properly. (I know. Conservative settings for a speed board? Pfft) But I don’t want to crash due to failure of parts due to settings
Thanks @b264 will definitely read up more on that later, but a few days ago, you suggested you would set absolute max current AT LEAST 150A. Why is that?
Yep. Things tend to spike in “transient” conditions but for a few miliseconds it’s more than ok. If that value is too low you get overcurrent faults every time you do something more abrupt with the throttle or brake hard. If you gotta brake and get an overcurrent fault you get no control for a while which is baaaddd.
Absolute max won’t let you pass the mosfet amp rating inside the esc anyway. If the mosfet is a 150A one, that’s how high it will let you set it
I’m not sure what your idea of hot swap is, but it’s the same with belts where you’d have to remove the adapters. So I guess all of them and none of them?
ah damn, ok , maybe not hot-swap lol. more like labour-intenstive swap then like which will allow me to use thane and pneumatics? i ask bc i inquired into Moon’s geardrive and he said they only really work with minimum 6" pneumatics, which gives a 22mm clearance, so thane wouldn’t work.
Bergs unobtanium unfortunately…
3ds made me go nooope at every price listed on that site.
I’m in the uk (no, trampa is not an option either. No idea what fits what on their own damn site anyway)
i saw a gb on an old thread with those spiral right angled ones, taiwanese produced iirc that stick out the rear at 90 degrees to what they would normally be. pain in the arse to install it seemed. they could work with thane, but that’s all.
i also can’t wait for BD gear. @Jujo what are the lycan gears, never heard?
Problem is how the whole thing interfaces with the wheel. Most seem bolt-on.
Problem 2 is the torque difference. Bigger wheel AND double consumption on pneumatics