FUB 
Seriously though, are metric skate tools a thing?
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i know bike tools have both standard 
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Not to my knowledge.
I just got an empty tool case and filled it with the tools I need on the go as well as a few spare belts, bolts, nuts and doodads
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Don’t forget a spare bearing. Even if it’s used and half rusted. It’s saved me once.
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Leatherman Wave = metric skate tool and a lot more 
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yeah bike tools for metric , my fav
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIE4AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_pCpDFbM5PRF12
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A deck shouldn’t crack while a layer of fiberglass/resin in curing on top right? I’m noticing some getting larger/noticeable
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but does anyone have a boardnamics idler motor mount kit and is willing to sell? I ordered on the website but its currently on backorder.
It shouldn’t.
It’s possible that they’re becoming more noticeable due to the resin soaking into the wood more.
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He’s getting them in stock in a day or two.
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Yes, if you absolutely can’t wait
But this may make it a moot point
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Ah i see! The website says the ETA is 30 days so I kinda got scared… my current mount cracked where you adjust the angle. Jb weld worked for a few miles but then broke. Thanks Ill wait!
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best way to seal the opening for motor cables? Besides cable glands or liquid sealant?
Bungs/grommets?
hmm i think those would work. I want to have as tight a seal as possible to limit dust/water from getting in. But i think glands are too big; thanks!
Make a hole in the enclosure just big enough, then epoxy a male (with the prongs) MR60 connector through the side of the enclosure. Make sure it points as far upward (toward the deck) as possible for best results.
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What Brian said. Or, you can get multi-hole cable glands, and run all (or at least all of one side) your motor wires through one gland rather than needing six or eight of them.
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@Jujo this is a good start point. Motor max (phase current limit) will be hit until the duty cycle at which it would cause battery max to be exceeded, then it will begin limiting at battery max as the speed continues to increase.
The first third the limiting factor is motor amps, as you continue to increase rpm then the middle bottleneck is battery current, and finally you reach a voltage bottleneck at the end.
It’s a bit more complicated than that also, because wind resistance goes up steeply once you start going fast, so sometimes the peak of motor output can’t be reached in practice because there simply isn’t enough power to overcome drag, so you may actually only climb halfway across the chart. It depends on your gearing and all manner of other things.
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Alright quick question. How do we prevent imminent esc failure as we’re free rolling down a hill at about 35mph. Assuming maybe 80% charge?
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Have a {motor Kv / wheel size / gear ratio / ESC max voltage} that won’t cause any limits to be exceeded.
One way to do that is to use an ESC that is rated for more volts then your battery, the higher the margin the better, and don’t use a setup that approaches the erpm limits of the ESC,
The easiest way is to setup your ride to reach a powered speed that is significantly faster than you will go.
On an example setup with a 12S4P 30Q with dual TB6380 190kv, 175mm wheels 18/60:
It should reach somewhere around 39mph under power and somewhere around 50.5mph on the bench and max out around 57kerpm on the bench.
I would feel comfortable pushing that downhill all the way to almost 50mph but no further. Most controllers we seem to use can do 100kerpm I think. Unity and single-MCU “dual” models excluded, I am not sure about those.
If you really want to feel safe then lower that series count to 11S and use that Max Speed it lists (46.3mph) and don’t exceed that on a 12S battery.
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