They should be fine then, but I always like them a little tighter. I’d rather sacrifice some efficiency over having brakes at high speed.
Glad you got it resolved, seems like I guessed wrong 
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True true. My thought was that the looser they are the longer your belts last, but I suppose it also depends on how you ride. Faster = tighter for good brakes or slower = looser for good enough brakes and hopefully longer belt life and a little quieter
I think TB sells some good ones? I can’t say for sure since I haven’t used them (or many in general) but they’re the only ones I know of with set screws & grub screws instead of just grub screws
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thx I think I’ll grab a set or two…I’m grounded until I get more.
Fuse Master @b264, are these glass tube fuses ok to use on charge port?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8RLMPB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_0A.yFbK8BNJ1J
Quick blow, 250v, various amps in kit, low profile
Not sure. I wouldn’t have metal vibrating against the glass though, a little silicone or foam or HMA should make it fine though
If you have issues with vibrations breaking the filament though please do tell.
I personally would use a blade type fuse though
I like that it’s in the housing, I’ll still have it not banging against the case though. Thanks
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I’m perennially confused about how to speak about gear ratio.
in a car lower gear means more torque.
so smaller drive gear means more torque.
so given drive/driven
A) 16T/36T = 0.44 = 1:2.25
B) 15T/36T = 0.41 = 1:2.4
I think of B as the lower gearing. A as the taller gearing. B is the smaller fraction. A is the larger fraction. B has more torque than A.
but you could talk about the reciprocal and say B’s 2.4 is larger gear ratio than A’s 2.25… and I feel like i see people talk about them both ways.
is there a right way and a way to keep them straight?
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Is this an expected and acceptable level of wobble with Bergs? If not, how are you supposed to assemble them so that they are more stable? The spares I got with the order are oval shaped as well, even more so than the tire in the video.
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I’m with you, brother.
me too
Hmm, I feel like “taller” means “more reduction” and hence, more torque, which means B
Yes, always say “15/42” or “1:2.8” or “geared for more torque”. Don’t even use the phrases “taller ratio” or “lower gearing” because to a lot of folks it means the opposite thing.
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So what if I leave the min to default(-140000)?
Wheel pulley rubbing against the core of the wheel.
Put a thin film of grease in there
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You won’t ever reach that, and it will have no effect.
Pre-inflate to a pressure you can still move the tire, balance as much as you can, then inflate all the way
If it’s still wobbly i don’t really know
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Yeah like @Athrx said, that’s definitely the sound of a wheel pulley.
Assuming it’s not bolt-on:
Grease will reduce the symptoms, but not the cause.
To reduce the cause, slightly reduce the thickness of the spacer between the pulley bearing and the wheel bearing. If it has 8mm of spacer, make it 7mm et cetera
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it’s a bit finicky to get the spring in there . i usually start with it on the trigger side and finagle it over the housing side as the “axle” of the trigger goes in the hole.
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are you sure or is that a guess? Cause that’s really hard to finangle 
fuckin springs flyin all over the place trying to position it
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i am only 90% sure as I don’t have one apart at the moment. but that’s pretty sure. I’ve done it a few times.
EDIT:
yes. but it’s not too hard. but springs fly … yes.
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Magnets are your friend.
Also when looking for lost parts that are small, get your eyeball as close to the floor as you possibly can, and look across the room. Often you will see it immediately.
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