Can you show the colours of the wires as they go in the jst connector? Also if you know, the voltage the sensor plug gives. 5v/3.3v
Until what temperature should a motor be fine and working without any damage? What do you guys feel comfortable with?
And how accurate is the Focbox app?
Just leave the default temperature limits. It’s not something life hack-y to modify or tune. The magnets start to lose their properties at around 85°, other things like glue and bearings are put under much more stress as well and something will eventually fail, all for no advantage since a higher temperature cutoff will not make the motor shed heat in any different way, just take a bit longer to get to the new cutoff
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Likely somewhere around the 80°C mark
As accurate as the hardware is, I’d feel comfortable guessing it’s around ±5%
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Yep… no luck… i guess i will have to open the motors after all. With multimeter hall sensors seem to latch to ground on/off as they spin, but i’m not really sure what the vescs expect to see
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That is what should happen
Relative to ground, each of A, B, C, should alternate between a higher and lower voltage as you slowly turn the rotor.
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Well, they do. Temperature sensor works as well. What the hell is wrong after all? I can plop in the old motors and they work, i put these, nada
What do the old motor’s hall sensors do on the multimeter?
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Do you have the pinout correct? The hall signal wire order doesn’t matter, but ground, power, temp, and the three halls all have to go in the right places.
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You and @MysticalDork might be on to something…
Old motors: halls to: gnd - 0.00v or 0.9-1v
Red wire - 3.2v or 0.2-0.3v
Will update with new motor
New motor:
Hall to gnd - 0.1 or 0.9~95v
Hall to red - 0.25~45v or 2.85~3.25v
Seems like flipshit found a way to source even shittier sensors this time around…
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Hey guys, which gear ratio would you suggest for good high speed and torque (10s4p)with 87/90mm wheels ? And If I put some 6inch pneumatics on it for some off road would you recommend to change gear ratio for a bit more torque or do you think that a classic 1:2,25 would be fine for both?
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@MysticalDork i switched a vesc to 5v and detection finally gave results!
One last stupid question:
Can i take 5v from another rail/connector? I ripped the nub on the switch on the second one…
What motor Kv?
At 190Kv, I’d suggest 16/36 or 1:2.25
Also check out https://calc.esk8.news/
Target a top speed around 25 - 30 mph ( 40 - 48 km/h ) for a good balance of speed and torque. If you want more torque, lower the top speed. For pneumatics, decrease efficiency from around 90% (polyurethane longboard wheels) to around 75%.
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Pick one
Also state the type of cell. 30q? 40t? Unknown?
Motor kv matters as well
Lastly, any pneumatic tires will, as a start, double your consumption. If you needed 1.5kW to sustain 40km/hr on urethane, you will need 3kW on pneumatics (just example, not real world numbers)
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@b264 how much current can 0.2 x 25 and 0.2 x 30mm nickel strips carry? I didn’t see those sizes listed on your handy chart.
edit: according to this:
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=248218&sid=a3bdff370eca366449c773894815c4d6&mode=view
6mm squared is approximately the same as 10ga stranded wire, does that sound right?
@computers
6mm2 of nickel strip is the equivalent of 10AWG nickel wire.
Nickel is a far worse conductor than copper (4x worse) so to get the same current carrying capability as one 10awg/6mm2 copper conductor, you’d need four times that thickness of nickel, or 24mm2.
That’s why we generally don’t recommend using nickel to carry the full battery current, instead only using it for the P-groups of a battery but not the series connections.
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Quick question not worthy of a new thread.
What kind of power supply should I get to power one of these? I’m sick of 6 hour charges to fill up my trampa.
ISDT T8 Battgo Lipo Battery Charger/Discharger, Balance Charger Discharger 30A 1000W DC 2-8S LCD Display Digital Smart Battery Balance Charger for Li-Po Li-Hv Li-Ion Li-Fe NiMH Ni-Cd Pb https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077SRQR54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8.zyFbW81059J
Yeah its 190kv, thanks for the good advice
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Here are some specs from the page you linked:
- Input Voltage: DC 12-40V
- Max current: 35A
- Max Charge Capacity: 1000W
So, you need a power supply of between 12 and 40 volts, at up to 35 amps.
If you want to charge at 1KW, you gotta do the math. P=IV. P=power. I=current. V=voltage. How many amps do you need at how many volts to get 1KW?