You got what looks like teflon jacketed hookup wire, not nice supple delicious silicone wire, that’s the problem.
As long as the conductor inside is the same size it’ll conduct just fine, but it’s stiff, and annoying, and harder to work with, and may end up work hardening and failing due to fatigue earlier than some proper superflex.
I just uploaded another photo. The insulation is thinner than the 12 awg on unity.
Yeah I noticed that on the invoice. What is “hookup strand”?
Stranded hookup wire. As opposed to solid (one single fat piece of copper).
Silicone wire is stranded too, the difference is it has WAY more strands, and each one is much thinner.
Silicone is a much less mechanically robust and abrasion resistant material than most of the others used for wire insulation, so silicone insulated wire tends to be quite a bit thicker than others, for the same AWG.
The advantage is that it has an outstanding heat tolerance range (from around -50 to +200 or 250 C), and is much more flexible and rubbery.
Thank you for informative response!
I thought I was getting the best wire (when I was reading product description it said wire is used in aerospace, so I was like cool!!! Aerospace wire!!) but I guess I got the wrong wire for my intended use.
Teflon wire (that’s what yours looks like) is also very good in wide temperature ranges, as well as vacuum and other harsh conditions like vibration and abrasion (teflon is slippery AF), but it’s a lot less flexible. More of a plastic than a rubber like silicone.
One of the other big advantages is the thin jacket, so you can fit more wires into less space.
It’s good shit, just not the best for esk8 use. I’ve got a couple rolls of teflon 24? awg myself left over from my old airplane engine job.
Anyone know why I could be getting flashing red lights when I run my escs in BLDC mode but FOC mode runs with no issues? On the latest firmware.
You do calibration on them when switching to BLDC? Also when is it flashing red bench testing or happens while/after ride testing (any faults in the terminal)
I did the setup wizard then switch to bldc. What calibration do i do for bldc? It happens when I go full throttle on a bench test; i already checked if the voltage limits were correct. The only setting changed from when it did and didn’t flash red lights was FOC/BLDC mode. If i remember correctly i got an abs over current error in the terminal but i also made sure my current settings were correct.
After switching to bldc you did the setup again?
So motor detection and sensors if you have any.
Should I be doing setup again after changing? I haven’t because it says foc mode on the page with the setup wizard.
These don’t need to be in during setup right? So long as Im running a sensorless setup?
If you want FOC you do the FOC detection and setup
If you want BLDC, you do the BLDC detection and setup.
No switching between them without redoing detection etc afaik.
Does it change from foc to bldc on the motor setup wizard when you select bldc somewhere? I was under the impression you do the foc setup wizard and then switch to bldc mode under the motor settings 
Nope, both have their own detection.
Thanks! I’ll make those changes asap…
I did notice the wizard forces foc if it detects you can use it.
I chose bldc and it truncated to foc
So my mbs is foc even though I wanted bldc but was lazy
Yea it seems that the main focus is on FOC. Back in the day BLDC was on the main detection windows, now its foc.
Never touched bldc ever again after trying foc the first time ¯\(ツ)/¯
the wizard uses foc if it’s possible, but you can do bldc detection separately from the app
same here
If it forces FOC mode it makes sense why bldc wouldn’t show up. I’m trying BLDC over FOC mainly because i hear its more reliable, but i would prefer foc just for the smoothness