Possibly? I have difficulties understanding how charging works without a bms. I’d imagine not matching would not be a good idea
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In this case the bms is inside the charger and not in the battery.
Not actually sure how what the internals of the balance board looks like, I’d imagine they’re just all passive and connected in parallel, but this could cause issues if you connect 2 lipos with very different voltages (eg. 3.0V on one and 4.0V on the other) so there is probably some extra electronics inside (or not if it’s high grade chinesium)
What the balance board does is just add more P groups, someone who flys kwads probably knows more how these things work
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I’ll open it up tonight and see what the traces are and if there’s anything fancy hidden inside
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What’s the general goal when tuning hfi?
Get it as low as it can go while it still pushes you forward?
Also, what’s the minimum erpm switch people use around here? (The point where hfi turns off and observer takes control)
Does hfi need any parameters adjusted when increasing switching frequency? (The sound definetly changes from 25khz to 30)
Lastly… my hall sensors don’t work, just getting bad detection results, yet the temperature of the motor is correctly displayed (and fucks up when i unplug the cable). What can it be?
this look puffy to you? (i’m saying yes. ( thanks @CiscoV 
)
anyone know where to source a battery for a hoyt remote?
seems to be about 52x25x12mm. 1000mah 3.7 (1s)
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Give it a few taps with a hammer to see if it flattens up a bit better…
Or don’t…
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Have you tried contacting @JJHoyt?
Damn. I see you’re having a shit ton of issues with the board. Maybe you should Just send it back to me 
Can’t be tht bad. It hasn’t seen that many cycles.
lol. 
it’s a shit fun of issues.
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Ha. I miss that thing
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hmm. it definitely feels puffy. and it was vibrating low charge on first use after full charge.
it’s reading 4.1v though. hmm.
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Ah yeah. That ain’t sexy. It used to last For at least x3 20plus mile Rides lol
I’m sorry I sold broken shit to you brother
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no worries.
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So I tried again, and im getting the same error and it also tells me the motor configuration can’t be read 
Should I be concerned? IK for a fact they have to have the same firmware since I uploaded the same one twice on each vesc
Side note, like the 4.12, the 4.20 is more reliable on BLDC over FOC (sensorless) mode right?
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dern.
welp, still digging through other listings.
did u try to re-upload the bootloader first, then the firmware? sometimes these things doesn’t like each other until u force it to
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Might have better luck searching on ebay yourself and limiting results inside the us. With some luck you’ll find even local sellers
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The bootloader?
Depends who made that 4.20 esc. I ran a maker-x in foc with no issues, others just blow them up straight away.
So, just to pick up again:
Unplug remote receiver from esc, make sure canbus is connected (only can_H and can_L, middle 2 pins)
Plug in the escs to your power supply, with nothing but the canbus so far.
Pick either of them and connect to it with your computer
Run the motor wizard from the homepage
If successful:
Plug the remote receiver, go to app input, general, make sure uart is selected
Try the remote
Not the same as pc but:
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