I might try finding an ultra-cheap useless VESC-based ESC that has the main FETs blown off the PCB — or maybe just an ultra-cheap VESC 4.12 and using it with the other ESC over CAN that is driving the motor, just for data alone. You could put an encoder on the wheel and only use the second ESC for telemetry.
All releases are considered “stable” by the maintainers (there’s been a lot of discussion and work around making this more of a process to go from “beta” release to being “tested” to being released more broadly as “stable”). Before recent discussions it’s basically been on Ben and Frank to decide when something is safe enough to release in the wild, but these are at your own risk setups when it’s all DIY and using random third party speed controllers running their software.
TLDR I’ve upgraded a lot of versions of the VESC over time, and there have been various issues occasionally where I’ve decided to roll back rather than deal with problems, and generally speaking once I’m on a version that is working well I don’t really upgrade unless there is something new I really want to try out. On the latest firmware versions for example I am starting to be tempted to upgrade to check out HFI but like I said I stick with what works for me until it doesn’t
Latest version should have in theory all the bug fixes from previous revisions but there can be regressions, I’m not sure how much unit testing or other automated testing is in place with the VESC firmware or UI but honestly I feel there is limited value in that for physical devices and UIs that both require human interaction to really know if they “work” or “work well” for a given user (fit expectations etc.) If the VESC project had unlimited funding and engineering talent+time (ideal world) we would have physical test benches for everything and automated testing for all layers of everything we depend on in life, but reality isn’t ideal.
besides grub screw, what other ways i can stop a motor pulley from moving side to side? one of the motor pulley just wont stay in same place even after i let the loctite cure for 2 days, its the third time this week im dealing with it, i need a better solution.
more info: BKB tayto motor, pix below, motor mount has a perfect circle to indicate its rubbing against it
Loctite 641 - medium strength retaining compound.
Can go high strength (648/638/680), but it’s hard to remove and needs lots of heat.
I like the medium one.
I put (just enough) Loctite on top of the key shaft on mine. After that I pour a little bit at the end of the shaft and just cure it. That usually does the trick for me
You might have too much play in the pulley so it rubs down any glue you may put there. How much does it spin with nothing tightened down, no glue but just the key?
You could take the nuke option and epoxy it on, but if you ever have problems, the entire motor and mount are not reusable.
You could drill and tap a small hole through the pulley and shaft, like M3, and put a bolt clean through the whole thing. beware the shaft might be case-hardened though, but probably still doable.
242 is definitely not the best one for this; green 290 is more permanent and creeps into crevices better but isn’t as permanent as red. It’s tough to remove but not impossible.