I have been wondering what was better for cooling, heatsinks with thin fins or chunky ones like the 3DS ones. I think I read once that even a chunk of metal would do a lot for heat dissipation.
Did you try motor detection? I’ve seen this error before…
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metal works better. I use it on all my escs. I also add some thermal pastes to make it work.
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Yep, reflashed the FW on both and did all the settings from scratch. Nothing out of the ordinary.
Alright, so if you run into this again, try to rerun the motor detection at the time of notice. This usually happens due to a faulty drv chip.
Edit: I did see this before lol
It’s raining outside right now, but when I tested it in the hallway in my building, I do believe it matches up with that post how when it happens it’s when letting off the throttle after accelerating. But in my case there is always 0 current.
Though one thing I don’t understand is how a motor detection can fix it. The issue is completely unnoticeable while riding. And seems to happen randomly.
Also another thing is I never notice a loss of power, even with a fault stop time of 500ms.
Edit: I doubt this will change anything, but I might try disconnecting the metr and going out for a ride then connecting to a PC and checking for faults. I’ve done this before the metr and never seen anything so I wanna check again, to see if it’s just the Metr picking it up or maybe being cause by it some how.
Best to check what would be the main cause. If it’s not the metr, it could be the DRV chip.
battery enclosure is most likely under the griptape, peel it up and see what’s underneath?
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It depends on the environment. If you’ve got forced air, then shorter, stumpier fins are generally better to a point because you don’t have as much of a thermal gradient towards the ends.
For ambient convection, long thin fins with plenty of room between them is better - More surface area.
For passive radiation with no convection (E.G. in the vacuum of space), then you want very low density with huge, very thin fins. Maximum surface area, and minimum interradiation between the fins.
Long story short, it depends on the conditions and limits you’re working within. Are you limited by mass, or volume? Forced air or passive? Yadda Yadda.
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That’s really well explained even I understood it after 1 reading. Thanks
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To open, you have to remove the grip tape. That’s where most carbon fiber decks would keep the lid since the whole board is basically a basket holding everything else.
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Anyone knows how to accurately calculate kv ratings? I searched up the mathematics for a lot of things but it’s not 100% accurate. Its close to it, but im still having some issues.
Im trying to figure out this motor’s kv:
In my math, this motor’s kv is 76. But I rounded that number. It would be 75 if it wasn’t.
Is there any way to tell the vesc that it has a different temperature?
The temp reading on one of my 4.12s is quite a bit off. Is there a way to tell it “you are at 28c instead of 13c” ?
Usually, its the software program that does it for you. But unfortunately, I don’t know if the system named it something else.
Its supposed to be Temp. Adj. Its basically the thermostat of the vesc software. Maybe someone knows the name for it and location?
Edit: its called thermistor.
So what cause DRV faults? Having trouble finding anything that gives me an understanding. having the wrong motor detection values seems like one thing… but for a motor that’s been running that suggests that the motor is having issues?
what else? what does it mean? 
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What causes DRV faults? Whatever the manufacturer made it to be operational and using the opposite system so that the chip will fail to read or causes overloading current that burns the chip.
For example, if you use FOC on a BLDC esc, it can cause a failure. Or, if you overcurrent the esc from it’s original program, it can short. So using a 12s system on a bldc esc that was programmed by using 10s and saying “hey, this esc can hold 12s no problem”, while it wasn’t tested at 12s, can cause DRV fault.
It’s really stupid I know…
Apparently pushing yourself instead of standing on it and hitting the trigger doesn’t cause this issue (sounds close to Amp bursting). Did you try changing the DRV settings? You Need Spi for this.
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So I went outside and did some testing, I couldn’t get the errors to go away doing motor detection right after getting the error…
For fun I switched the setting to BLDC… it never used to work before on BLDC and always threw faults, yet it worked good and no faults after 2 miles.
Though I can’t seem to get sensors to work with BLDC…
So I think the faults are a FOC thing, but that still requires more testing.
One question I have is that are these faults really causing any problems? They are 100% unnoticeable while riding, I’m just worried that the life of the ESC is being reduced the more I get.
In my case I’m asking about a 10s system, dual focbox, in FOC, that’s run the same way for some time. and suddenly threw this fault. [ and possibly the same on the other motor a few weeks prior which actually blew the fets]
so really I’m asking what can change that can suddenly cause a DRV fault…
no. and I had no idea there were DRV settings that could be changed.
Someone said the same thing. How high were you running your currents? For 10s it shouldn’t be too much. Sometimes, a small change can also be a factor. Thats also annoying.
I think he meant read drv though.
That is correct actually. The more you get DRV faults, the more it means that the esc chip is breaking down. To me, it sounds like your esc was built on bldc over FOC but I don’t think its the main cause since you were using foc for a while. But yeah, a few good tests should help.
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