I think what blows them is not plugging them in fully before running high current through them. that’s just from reading. not experience.
so I think the procedure is plug them in slowly to limit inrush current to the capacitors via the resistor. this should charge them enough at a slower rate.
make sure it’s fully plugged in so the resistor is now bypassed and not in the way of your full current when using the board.
That is correct. I got myself a flipsky BLE V6 for mine. You might need a V4 if you’re not using a fsesc 6.6. If yours come with a built in Bluetooth module, you dont need a BLE.
Firstly, welcome to the forums. Second, you might want to just get yourself another 10s battery and make a source switch instead. Assuming if Evolve uses 10s batteries or 12s, you might need to get the same thing but in a smaller package and make a source switcher so that if the main battery dies, you can use the second one as a reserve. That’s what I would do if I got an evolve.
Oh if you’re going to try and charge the batteries with the same plug, don’t. I would actually make a switch for that as well so that you can alternate from switch 1 (main charge) and switch 2 (second battery charge).
DIY is such a fun thing to do honestly.
They are not on the forum naughty list. They are on the @b264 naughty list. And yes, there is a difference.
Yep, exactly this.
An XT90-S loopkey is just an extremely simple way of inserting a resistor in series to pre-charge everything before engaging the full low-resistance circuit.
It could also be done with a triple-throw switch - one position is off, one position has the resistor, one position has no resistor. The problem is, finding a switch that can handle 50+ amps that isn’t huge and expensive is very difficult.
So we make our own.
Breaking the law, is breaking the law. There is a big difference there as well.
Thanks for your responses everyone! So pleased I came here, so much knowledge, there is a lot to learn.
I wish they made a switch that can handle the amps going through it. I’ve seen some builds using it and it looks clean. But the limits on that is so lame.
Seems like i did everything wrong with mine lol.
I used the XT90s on the inside and the regular xt90 as the key. Plus i always put it in really fast so it wouldn’t react as if it wasn’t plugged in fully because i was too slow or something. So far i have killed none.
Ooorr, a simple momentary button with a resistor in series to push while inserting the loopkey. No way to fuck the resistor this way
So I finally finished my 2nd version of my enclosure (which looks so much better than the first one I made).
Anyone got a good suggestion to make it water resistant? Or what materials should I use on it to seal out water?
The material mat inside is waterproof tape. Super sticky stuff that is covering the battery indicator, the charge ports and the anti spark switch. Its a headache to clean so don’t use that… at all…
Hi people, tell me please.
How to mount PeliCase on Trampaboard?
If I screw 4 bolts PeliCase it will be a rigid structure, when jumping, the board bends and can pull out the bolts.
I would suggest using through the deck inserts or bolts and rubber washers, prolly 5mm min.
FYI, I max a hard pack trails so maybe ignore me 
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Thanks seems to hold up well but I’m very careful with it but it seems plenty durable
Any suggestions on sealing a fiberglass enclosure to a deck I tried the d type door jam weather stripping and wasnt a fan
3 options (from my pov)
How do i solder onto flat wire? It doesn’t work like normal for me
I typically use this or some variation for seeling the enclosure to the deck.
I use a combo of these to pad internals if mounting componants to the deck, or if mounting in the enclosure pot everything in silicon.
Do you mean copper braid? If so, it typically works like any other copper but it will soak up the wire for quit a ways. Maybe put some vice grips on the braid where you want the solder to stop flowing.
